Book SummaryThe Third Pole, by Mark Synnott

1-Page Summary1-Page Book Summary of The Third Pole

The journey aimed to decipher the mystery and search for traces of Mallory and Irvine's attempt to climb Everest in 1924.

The disappearance of Mallory and Irvine during the 1924 expedition has made a lasting impression on the historical accounts of Everest exploration.

The story delves into the mysterious disappearance of George Mallory and Sandy Irvine during the first British attempt to summit Mount Everest in 1924. The book emphasizes the journey as a pivotal occurrence marked by determination, challenges, and enduring mystery in the chronicles of climbing Everest. The story explores the crucial impact of a 1924 expedition's avalanche that claimed the lives of seven porters, which was instrumental in defining the Sherpa's role in climbing Everest and laid the groundwork for ethical quandaries related to this support that continue today.

The mystery surrounding their final climb was sparked by Odell's observations.

The mystery surrounding the fate of Mallory and Irvine continues to be unsolved, as definitive evidence is lacking. Noel Odell, their fellow climber, was ascending towards their camp at 26,700 feet when he last saw them alive; he observed the two climbers advancing quickly on a rocky outcrop high on the Northeast Ridge. Odell believed he witnessed the pair overcome a major challenge in their route, an accomplishment that would have left them with minimal obstacles to the summit. However, Odell later changed his initial assessment because the changing weather and considerable distance made him think that he might have actually seen the First Step. The persistent mystery captivating mountaineering historians is whether Mallory and Irvine reached the summit of Everest, possibly accomplishing this feat almost thirty years before Hillary and Norgay's acknowledged climb in 1953.

Context

• The weather on Everest can change rapidly, with sudden snowstorms and high winds, which can obscure visibility and make it difficult to accurately assess distances and locations from afar.
• The First Step is one of three prominent rocky steps on the Northeast Ridge of Mount Everest. It is located at an elevation of about 28,000 feet (8,534 meters) and is considered a significant obstacle for climbers attempting the summit from the north side.
• Odell was the last person to see Mallory and Irvine alive. His observations have been crucial in piecing together their final movements, though they remain open to interpretation.
• Numerous expeditions have been launched to find evidence of their climb, including the discovery of Mallory's body in 1999, which provided some clues but no definitive answers.
• In 1924, climbers had limited technology and equipment compared to the advancements available by 1953, making Mallory and Irvine's potential success even more remarkable.

Debate and proof concerning their actual ascent to the peak.

Synnott examines various pieces of evidence to determine if Mallory and Irvine actually attained the peak. A crucial aspect of the story is the discovery of Mallory's body in 1999. Lying facedown at 26,770 feet, the body had a rope still tied to his waist, suggesting he had been roped to Irvine when he fell. His injuries, including broken ribs and rope burns, indicate a substantial drop; however, the condition of the corpse and its positioning, with arms outstretched and one leg resting over the wounded limb, suggest that he might have been conscious and fighting to survive, challenging the idea that his death resulted from a fall from the upper elevations of the peak. Mallory intended to place a photograph of his wife, Ruth, at the summit, but it was never discovered. The location of Irvine's remains and the camera, which may contain proof of their ascent's achievement, is still a mystery.

The debate hinges on the legitimacy of their climb, specifically regarding the section known as the Second Step. Could Mallory have overcome such a formidable obstacle with the basic mountaineering equipment of his era, including flaxen cords, boots with nailed soles, and an ice axe made of wood? Synnott delves into Conrad Anker's adventures, describing his solo climbs of the Second Step in 1999 and 2007 for research and cinematography, and infers that the most demanding part of the ascent likely surpassed what Mallory could have managed in terms of climbing skill. Based on his own experience climbing the Second Step in 2019, Synnott questions Anker's assessment. He often used a method where he took advantage of a horizontal crack situated slightly beneath the overhang's toughest section, which perfectly suited the shaft of an ice axe. Synnott proposes that Mallory, perhaps with Irvine's help, could have used his cleverness and expertise to conquer the difficult passage.

Context

• George Mallory and Andrew Irvine were British climbers who attempted to reach the summit of Mount Everest in 1924. Their expedition was one of the earliest serious attempts to climb the world's highest peak.
• The presence of a rope tied to Mallory's waist suggests that he and Irvine were roped together, a common safety practice in mountaineering to prevent falls. This detail implies they were climbing as a team when the accident occurred.
• The equipment used by climbers in the 1920s was rudimentary compared to modern standards. This included heavy wool clothing, basic ice axes, and hobnail boots, which would have made climbing and surviving falls more challenging.
• The act of leaving a photograph at the summit would have been a poignant personal statement, reflecting the human aspect of exploration during an era when mountaineering was as much about personal conquest as it was about national achievement.
• The harsh and ever-changing conditions on Everest, including avalanches and shifting ice, make locating Irvine's remains extremely difficult, as they could be buried under snow or moved from their original location.
• George Mallory and...

The Third Pole Summary The expedition team faced a variety of challenges typical of modern Everest endeavors in 2019, such as technical difficulties, logistical issues, and political hurdles.

This excerpt highlights the intricate challenges that modern expeditions encounter when attempting to scale Everest, emphasizing that while advancements in technology have made the summit more accessible, they have simultaneously introduced new dangers. The writer draws a comparison between the strategies employed from the northern and southern routes, emphasizing how logistical elements and advancements in technology have shaped their associated dangers and ease of access. Finally, the discussion turns to the distinct challenges and elements that come into play when planning a mountain-climbing expedition in China, emphasizing how the political goals of the Chinese government increasingly influence the rules and authorization process for ascending Everest.

Advancements in technology have rendered Everest more accessible, while also introducing new dangers.

Synnott highlights how advancements in technology have made climbing Everest more accessible, pointing out that improved equipment, superior oxygen systems, and precise weather forecasts have expanded the range of people who can attempt the ascent. Advancements in technology have undoubtedly made it easier for climbers...

The Third Pole Summary Scaling towering elevations challenges an individual's endurance, both mentally and physically, as well as their ability to acclimate to various cultural traditions, often with the crucial support of Sherpas.

This section of the text delves into the multitude of hurdles faced by mountaineers and their Sherpa partners as they ascend imposing peaks, encompassing the bodily, mental, and societal barriers they must surmount. Synnott combines personal encounters with academic research to offer a perceptive perspective on the physiological adaptations required to survive the deadly environment of the Death Zone, along with the psychological stress involved in pushing oneself to the limit in a setting that is unforgiving and severe. He explores the diverse cultural significance attached to Everest, examining how different aspirations and beliefs shape the experience.

The physiological adjustments that occur in the human body in response to the rigors of ascending to great heights.

This section outlines the challenging conditions and requirements faced by individuals at high altitudes. Synnott blends his personal encounters with high-altitude ailments such as headaches, fatigue, and nausea with expert medical perspectives to depict how the body adjusts to the reduced availability of oxygen at significant altitudes. Synnott describes how the body biologically adapts by increasing the...

The Third Pole Summary The contemporary period has introduced difficulties concerning safety and moral dilemmas stemming from the overcrowding of mountaineers on Everest.

This section delves into the intricate difficulties that emerge as more people strive to climb Everest, scrutinizing the ethical dilemmas and dangers associated with overcrowded routes and the influx of inexperienced climbers. Synnott delves into the moral quandaries climbers encounter upon encountering others in distress amid the dangerous overcrowding resulting from tour operators prioritizing profits over safety. He delves into the tragic story of David Sharp, who perished on the mountain in 2006, a tragedy compounded by the choice of many climbers to press on with their climb instead of offering him aid.

The problem of too many climbers congesting Everest impacts not just the safety and moral aspects, but also lessens the unique nature of the ascent.

Synnott conducts an in-depth examination of the complications arising from the excessive number of climbers on Everest, delving into its impact on safety protocols, ethical aspects of climbing, and the overall atmosphere of mountaineering. He depicts the mountain's evolution into a bustling, sometimes chaotic zone, driven by an influx of climbers drawn to the allure of conquering the planet's tallest summit, along with the...