Book SummaryDark Summit, by Nick Heil

1-Page Summary1-Page Book Summary of Dark Summit

Scaling the northern face of Everest.

Heil captivatingly recounts the journey to scale the North Face of Everest, emphasizing both its alluring draw and the formidable obstacles it presents. He delves into early explorations and the challenges faced by those who dared to attempt this treacherous route.

The earliest maps illustrating the summit were crafted thanks to the foundational work and exploration of early adventurers.

This passage highlights the thorough efforts made to accurately map and recognize Everest's position, ultimately leading to its recognition as the highest peak in the world. Heil delves into the comprehensive inquiries and daring expeditions that laid the groundwork for future attempts to ascend to the summit.

In the early 1900s, British military officers and pioneering surveyors initiated reconnaissance expeditions along the northern slopes of Everest.

Heil introduces figures like John Noel, a captain in the British army who, disguised as a pilgrim in 1913, covertly ventured into Tibet in search of a pathway leading to the foot of Mount Everest. Heil chronicles Noel's clandestine efforts, highlighting his determination to draw nearer to the mountain than any prior Western adventurer. The author also delves into the British Raj's strategic interest in Everest, utilizing specially trained "pundits," or "Tibetan-looking Indians," to explore the region for mapping and intelligence purposes. These individuals employed ingenious methods to record their observations, crucial to understanding the region's geography.

Heil emphasizes the importance of the Great Trigonometrical Survey of India, an extensive endeavor that spanned numerous years and concentrated on mapping the challenging terrain throughout the Himalayas. William Lambton and George Everest spearheaded the challenging survey, braving sickness, treacherous terrain, and encounters with wild animals to accurately pinpoint the location and confirm the extraordinary height of the peak known today as Everest. George Everest, despite his lack of enthusiasm for mountain climbing, is forever linked to the peak that bears his name.

Context

• The expeditions were not only for mapping but also for scientific research, including studying the effects of high altitude on the human body and understanding the geology and climate of the Himalayas.
• During the early 20th century, Tibet was largely closed to foreigners, making Noel's journey both risky and illegal, as he had to enter the region without official permission.
• During the British Raj, the British Empire was keen on expanding its influence and securing its borders in Asia. The Himalayas, including Everest, were strategically important as they bordered British-controlled India and Tibet, which was under Chinese influence.
• The "pundits" were Indian surveyors trained by the British during the 19th century to gather geographical and political intelligence in regions inaccessible to Westerners, particularly in Tibet and Nepal, where foreigners were often not allowed.
• William Lambton began the survey in southern India, and it took several decades to complete, with George Everest later overseeing its expansion into the Himalayas.
• The technology of the time was rudimentary compared to today, making the accuracy of their measurements even more remarkable given the conditions.
• Although not a mountaineer, Everest's legacy in the field of geodesy and cartography is profound, as his work significantly advanced the accuracy of maps and geographical understanding in the 19th century.

The first climb towards the peak was made using the pathway known as the Northeast Ridge.

Heil highlights the early victories of climbers who reached the summit of Everest following the Northeast Ridge, acknowledging the variety of tactics employed and the significance of these trailblazing achievements.

George Mallory spearheaded the British expedition in 1924, accompanied by Sandy Irvine.

The book explores the critical 1924 expedition when British climbers, guided by George Mallory, undertook a sincere attempt to ascend to the summit of Everest from the north. The expedition set a new benchmark by employing innovative respiratory equipment and audacious strategies, capturing the spirit of classic alpine pursuits and paving the way for future ascents. The vanishing of Mallory and Irvine near the summit continues to be a persistent mystery in the chronicles of climbing history. The discovery of Mallory's body in 1999 deepened the mystery of the climb, leading to increased speculation about whether the summit had been reached.

Context

• "Because it’s there," which encapsulates the spirit of exploration and adventure.
• Sandy Irvine was a young and talented climber and engineer, chosen for the expedition due to his expertise in modifying and improving the oxygen equipment, which was crucial for high-altitude climbing.
• In the 1920s, Tibet was more accessible to Western explorers than Nepal, which was closed to outsiders. This made the north route the only viable option...

Dark Summit Summary The character of journeys to Everest has progressively shifted towards a more commercial and professional orientation over time.

This section explores the transformation of Everest expeditions from primarily explorer-led endeavors to predominantly professionally guided ones, where clients finance the climbs. Heil highlights both the benefits and drawbacks of this transformation.

Companies are now focusing on providing equipment and guidance to those attempting to climb Everest.

Heil explores how commercial forces have altered the nature of Everest expeditions, affecting the climbers' experiences. He details the rise of companies like Russell Brice's Himalayan Experience (Himex), which provide comprehensive support, from seasoned guides and Sherpa assistance to high-quality equipment, food, and even entertainment. He emphasizes the significance of the expensive support mechanisms established to bolster his clients' safety and to heighten their chances of successfully ascending to the peak. In contrast, Heil also discusses the emergence of budget-friendly operators, such as those led by Mazur, which attracts clients seeking a more independent but arguably less supported and riskier experience.

Leaders of expeditions, including Russell Brice, have put together sizable and well-equipped...

Dark Summit Summary Scaling Everest is fraught with numerous hazards and difficulties.

This section emphasizes the unrelenting perils inherent in mountain climbing, which remain constant regardless of the climber's skill, the support they receive, or the strategies they employ, even at great altitudes. Heil delves into the physiological effects of oxygen scarcity, the dangers posed by unpredictable weather changes, and the complexities of executing rescue operations at elevations surpassing 8,000 meters.

The journey to higher elevations was marked by strenuous circumstances.

This section explores the impact of extreme altitude, which can greatly hinder a person's physical and cognitive abilities, making even basic tasks challenging for mountaineers, regardless of their fitness level or experience.

Acclimatization, oxygen use, and the physiological effects of hypoxia

Heil provides a thorough examination of the physiological transformations required to withstand the extreme environment at high altitudes, demonstrating how mountaineers' bodies adapt to the scarcity of oxygen, which can be beneficial but also poses risks. He elucidates that under conditions of reduced oxygen availability, the human body's response includes an increase in red blood cell...

Dark Summit Summary The ethical dilemmas and discussions stem from the deaths on Everest.

The narrative then delves into ethical considerations, scrutinizing how the climbing community's losses were viewed by the public, particularly as these incidents became more prominent in 2006 due to a rise in the death toll and extensive press attention. Heil explores the complex moral quandaries related to responsibility, compassion, and individual choices when facing the possibility of death amid the harsh environment encountered at high altitudes.

In 2006, David Sharp met his untimely demise.

The author investigates the controversial death that occurred in the 2006 climbing season, focusing specifically on the case of David Sharp, a British climber who died alone, which ignited heated debates about the ethical responsibilities of other climbers who chose to proceed with their climb rather than offer him aid. Heil meticulously reconstructs the events that culminated in Sharp's ascent and the ensuing calamity, drawing on a variety of sources including discussions with mountaineers, radio transcripts, and video footage. He highlights how Sharp's decision to climb independently, without Sherpa support, with minimal oxygen, and lacking even a radio, factored into his demise....