This section of Barber's book focuses on the historical context of fashion, demonstrating how its exploitative model is deeply rooted in colonialism. She shows that the current issues of environmental damage, worker exploitation, and overconsumption are a direct consequence of fashion's colonial past.
Barber emphasizes that today's fashion industry didn't just appear, but traces back to deliberate actions taken during colonialism. She draws stark connections between the historical oppression of southern nations and their current role as the primary manufacturing hub for rapid clothing production, highlighting the persistent exploitative dynamics.
The author dissects the traditional association of “developing countries" with southern nations, challenging readers to reconsider this categorization, which implies an inherent lack of progress. She argues that these nations are, in fact, rich in resources and labor, historically targeted and exploited by colonial powers. Barber provides a detailed overview of African nations rich in resources, highlighting how every country possesses valuable commodities highly sought after in the Northern Hemisphere. The misconception of these countries as "developing" stems from centuries of systematic plunder, leaving them economically fragile and vulnerable to continued exploitation, particularly by the apparel industry.
Barber sheds light on the historical context of the East India Company's arrival in India, emphasizing its strategic intention to dismantle the flourishing textile industry in India. Their tactics involved violent price manipulation, crippling India's robust handloom industry and paving the way for British colonization. In a similar vein, the author recounts the systematic exploitation of the valuable indigo commodity in Western Africa. Indigenous knowledge of indigo cultivation and dyeing was leveraged through forced labor to establish indigo plantations in the Americas and Caribbean, thus fueling European colonial empires. Barber reminds us that the modern fashion industry is built upon these oppressive legacies of extraction and forced labor, deeply intertwined with race and the enduring impact of colonialism.
Practical Tips
- Incorporate literature and academic research from scholars in the Global South into your reading list to challenge preconceived notions of progress. By reading books, articles, and studies authored by scholars from these regions, you'll gain insights into the diverse ways progress manifests outside the traditional Western framework. For instance, you might read a study on renewable energy initiatives in Kenya or a book on social entrepreneurship in Brazil.
- Consider investing in socially responsible funds that exclude companies with poor labor practices or those involved in resource exploitation. This strategy aligns your investment portfolio with your values, supporting businesses that prioritize ethical practices in southern nations. You can start by researching funds that have strong environmental, social, and governance (ESG) criteria and commit a portion of your investment to these funds.
- Start a blog or social media page dedicated to African innovations and sustainable practices in resource management. Use this platform to highlight successful case studies, interview local experts, and share insights on how African nations are utilizing their resources. This not only raises awareness but also connects you with a network of like-minded individuals and potential collaborators.
- Engage in language exchange with individuals from southern countries to foster mutual understanding. Platforms like Tandem or HelloTalk connect you with native speakers who want to learn your language, while you learn theirs. This exchange isn't just about language; it's an opportunity to hear firsthand about their culture, economy, and the impacts of historical events, which often contradicts the "developing" stereotype.
- You can support economic resilience in southern nations by purchasing from local artisans and businesses that practice fair trade. By doing this, you're directly contributing to the livelihoods of individuals in these communities and ensuring that your money is not perpetuating exploitation. Look for certifications or direct sales platforms that connect you with these producers, and make a habit of choosing these products over those from large apparel companies when possible.
- You can educate yourself on the history of local businesses and share their stories through social media to raise awareness. Understanding the background and challenges faced by these businesses can foster a sense of community and support. Create posts that highlight the craftsmanship, tradition, and cultural significance of local products, which can inspire others to appreciate and choose them over imported goods.
- Engage with local history by researching how your own region's past economic activities have influenced its current status. Visit local museums, read historical markers, or consult with a local historian to understand the historical commodities or trades that shaped your community. This personal investigation can reveal patterns similar to the indigo trade's impact on Western Africa and help you appreciate the complexities of local and global economic histories.
- You can diversify your wardrobe by intentionally purchasing clothes from brands that actively support and represent marginalized communities. Look for fashion labels owned by people of color or those that collaborate with artisans from historically exploited regions, ensuring that your purchases contribute to a more equitable industry.
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This section of Barber's book uncovers the unethical and unsustainable practices behind the fast-fashion business. She delves into how brands' relentless demand for more affordable and faster production leads to unsafe labor environments, environmental degradation, and a pervasive culture of disposability.
Barber demonstrates how brands' increasing demands for lower prices, faster turnaround times, and higher production volumes create a perfect storm for exploitation throughout the fashion industry's supply chain. She illustrates how the constant pursuit of low-cost labor pushes production to countries with weaker regulations and lower wages, sacrificing human and environmental well-being for profit.
By dissecting the inner workings of the manufacturing process, Barber reveals the competition to offer contracts at ever-lower costs, often leading to dangerous work environments and poverty pay for those making the clothes. She shows that the pressure to fulfill large orders within very short timeframes compels manufacturers to outsource...
This part of the book explores the individual and societal factors that drive overconsumption of fashion, highlighting the interplay between personal insecurities, identity construction, social pressures, and marketing tactics.
Barber examines how the apparel business manipulates consumers' anxieties surrounding self-worth and belonging to generate sales. She argues that fast fashion preys upon our ingrained insecurities, offering endless "new" trends as a means to fill voids and achieve fleeting validation.
Barber reveals how marketing and advertising strategies are carefully crafted to exploit consumers' vulnerabilities. She points out the ubiquitous messages in marketing that make us feel we aren't good enough as we are. Ads often suggest that happiness, success, and social acceptance are attainable through buying fresh apparel. This relentless bombardment of messaging fuels our desire to consume, creating a dependency loop where we constantly seek validation from our possessions.
The author connects this marketing...
Consumed
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