'Russ & Daughters' cookbook documents a century-old New York City establishment
In this episode of NPR's Book of the Day, fourth-generation owners of Russ & Daughters discuss their New York City appetizing store's century-long history. Starting as a humble herring pushcart, Joel Russ built what would become one of the first U.S. businesses to include "and Daughters" in its name, breaking from the traditional "and Sons" convention by bringing his three daughters into the business.
The episode explores how Russ & Daughters maintains its cultural traditions while adapting to a changing city. Topics include the distinction between appetizing stores and delis, the art of hand-slicing smoked salmon, and the store's role as a community anchor. The current owners share their perspectives on preserving their family's legacy while looking toward future generations, and explain how the store connects people to their heritage through food.
This is a preview of the Shortform summary of the Jan 5, 2026 episode of the NPR's Book of the Day
Sign up for Shortform to access the whole episode summary along with additional materials like counterarguments and context.
1-Page Summary
History and Origins of Russ & Daughters
Over a century ago, Joel Russ started as a humble street vendor selling herring from a pushcart before establishing what would become Russ & Daughters on New York's Lower East Side. In a progressive move for the time, Russ enlisted his three daughters to help run the business, making it among the first U.S. businesses to include "and Daughters" in its name rather than the traditional "and Sons."
Russ & Daughters: Appetizing Store vs. Deli
As an appetizing store, Russ & Daughters specializes in fish and dairy products, adhering to Jewish dietary laws that separate these items from meat products found in traditional delis. The store is particularly celebrated for its extensive selection of cold-smoked salmon, offering 12 to 13 different varieties.
The Artistry and Craft of Hand-Slicing Smoked Fish
Niki Russ Federman demonstrates that salmon slicing at Russ & Daughters is an intricate art form requiring extensive training. Each slicer completes a three-month apprenticeship to master the technique of cutting salmon so thin it's nearly translucent, enhancing both flavor and texture in ways machine-slicing cannot achieve.
Family Legacy: Generational Ownership of Russ & Daughters
Now in its fourth generation of family ownership, Russ & Daughters is operated by cousins Niki Russ Federman and Josh Russ Tupper. They've expanded the business while maintaining its traditional values, with hopes of eventually passing it to a fifth generation.
Cultural and Community Significance of Russ & Daughters
Niki Russ Federman describes the store as more than just a shop—it's a "food of memory" that connects people to their heritage. The establishment has inspired many, including Justice Ruth Bader Ginsburg, who saw the store's name as an early symbol of women's potential in business. In an era of rapid urban change, Federman notes that Russ & Daughters serves as a vital community anchor, preserving cultural traditions and maintaining a sense of place in New York's evolving landscape.
1-Page Summary
Additional Materials
Clarifications
- An "appetizing store" is a Jewish specialty shop that sells fish, dairy, and other non-meat foods, following kosher dietary laws. A "deli" typically offers a wider range of meats, including cured and cooked meats, alongside other foods. The distinction arises from Jewish dietary rules that prohibit mixing meat and dairy, so appetizing stores focus on fish and dairy without meat products. This difference shapes the types of products and culinary traditions each store represents.
- Jewish dietary laws, known as kashrut, prohibit mixing meat and dairy products in the same meal or using the same utensils for both. Fish is considered pareve, meaning it is neutral and can be eaten with either meat or dairy. However, fish is never cooked or served with meat according to tradition. This separation helps maintain ritual purity and follows biblical commandments.
- Traditionally, family businesses used "and Sons" to indicate male heirs would continue the enterprise, reflecting societal norms favoring men in business roles. Women were often excluded from formal business leadership or ownership, so including "and Daughters" challenged gender expectations. This naming choice highlighted the active involvement and importance of women in the business. It was an early public acknowledgment of women's capabilities and rights in commerce.
- Cold-smoked salmon is a traditional Jewish delicacy often enjoyed during holidays and special occasions, symbolizing cultural heritage. Its delicate flavor and texture result from a slow smoking process at low temperatures, preserving the fish's natural qualities. Offering 12 to 13 varieties showcases Russ & Daughters' dedication to craftsmanship and caters to diverse tastes, highlighting their expertise. This variety also reflects the store's role in preserving and celebrating a rich culinary tradition.
- Hand-slicing salmon allows for precise control over thickness, preserving delicate texture and enhancing flavor release. Machines often cut unevenly or too thick, which can alter mouthfeel and taste. Skilled slicers adjust pressure and angle to avoid damaging the fish's structure. This craftsmanship maintains the product's premium quality and traditional appeal.
- New York's Lower East Side was a major entry point for immigrants, especially Eastern European Jews, in the late 19th and early 20th centuries. It became a densely populated neighborhood where immigrant communities established businesses reflecting their cultural traditions. These businesses, like Russ & Daughters, provided familiar foods and social connections, helping preserve cultural identity. The area is historically significant as a symbol of immigrant resilience and cultural diversity in America.
- The phrase "food of memory" refers to foods that evoke personal or collective memories, often tied to family, culture, or tradition. Such foods carry emotional significance, connecting people to their past and identity. They help preserve cultural heritage by maintaining traditional recipes and eating practices. This concept highlights how food can be a powerful symbol of belonging and continuity.
- Justice Ruth Bader Ginsburg was a pioneering advocate for gender equality and women's rights. Her recognition of Russ & Daughters' name highlighted its break from tradition by including "Daughters," symbolizing female empowerment in business. This connection underscores the store's role as a cultural icon beyond food, representing progress in social norms. Ginsburg's admiration adds historical and feminist significance to the store's legacy.
- A "community anchor" is a stable institution that provides continuity and identity within a neighborhood. It offers a gathering place where people connect, share culture, and support each other. Food stores like Russ & Daughters preserve local traditions and memories, fostering a sense of belonging. Amid urban change, such anchors help maintain community cohesion and resist cultural displacement.
Related Shortform Content
Get access to the context and additional materials
History and Origins of Russ & Daughters
Russ & Daughters, the iconic New York City eatery, has a rich history extending back over a century, with its roots on the bustling Lower East Side.
Russ & Daughters Was Founded Over a Century ago by Joel Russ, Who Began As a Street Vendor Selling Curd and Herring Before Opening His Appetizing Store On the Lower East Side
Over a century ago, Joel Russ began his journey into entrepreneurship as a street vendor with a pushcart. His business started with selling Schmaltz herring, a type of cured and salted fish. From these humble beginnings, Joel Russ worked hard to carve out a niche for his goods.
Russ Family Business Origin
The business that would eventually become known as Russ & Daughters did not always bear that title. It went through various names, one of the earliest being Russ's Cut Rate Appetizing. Joel Russ's great-grandfather, presumably himself, was part of a competitive landscape of appetizing stores in the Lower East Side, each jockeying for the attention and loyalty of customers.
Joel Russ Enlisted His Daughters, Making Russ & Daughters Among the First U.S. Businesses With "and Daughters" In Its Name
As his business gr ...
Here’s what you’ll find in our full summary
History and Origins of Russ & Daughters
Additional Materials
Clarifications
- An "appetizing store" is a type of Jewish deli specializing in foods that complement bagels, such as smoked and pickled fish, cream cheese, and other dairy or fish products. It differs from a traditional deli, which often focuses on meats and sandwiches. These stores cater to dietary laws separating meat and dairy, so they avoid selling meat products. The term "appetizing" refers to the appealing, ready-to-eat nature of these foods.
- Schmaltz herring is a type of pickled herring that is soft and oily, often eaten as a delicacy in Jewish cuisine. It is typically marinated in a mixture of vinegar, sugar, and spices, giving it a distinctive tangy flavor. This fish was a staple food for Eastern European Jewish immigrants, making it culturally significant. Its sale helped Russ & Daughters connect with the local immigrant community and build their business.
- The Lower East Side of New York City was historically a major immigrant neighborhood, especially for Eastern European Jews in the late 19th and early 20th centuries. It was known for its crowded tenements, vibrant street life, and diverse cultural influences. This area became a hub for Jewish food traditions, including appetizing stores selling smoked and cured fish. Russ & Daughters emerged in this rich cultural environment, serving the local immigrant community.
- Traditionally, family businesses used "and Sons" to indicate male heirs would continue the business. This reflected historical gender roles where sons were expected to inherit and run family enterprises. Using "and Daughters" challenged these norms by recognizing daughters as equal partners in business. It signaled progressive values and gender inclusion in a male-dominated commercial culture.
- In the early 20th century, pushcart vendors were common small-scale entrepreneurs who sold goods directly on city streets using wheeled carts. These vendors provided affordable, accessible products to urban populations, especially immigrants and working-class people. Pushcarts required minimal startup costs, making them a popular way to enter commerce. They played a crucial role in the economi ...
Related Shortform Content
Get access to the context and additional materials
Russ & Daughters: Appetizing Store vs. Deli
Appetizing Store Russ & Daughters Specializes In Fish and Dairy
There's an emphasis on the expertise of Josh and Niki when it comes to the appetizing items that Russ & Daughters provides. The store stands out as an appetizing store, a concept rooted in Jewish dietary laws that separate fish and dairy products from the smoked and cured meats typically found at a delicatessen.
Jewish Dietary Laws Distinguish Appetizing Stores (Fish, Dairy) From Delis
The distinction between an appetizing store and a deli is informed by Jewish dietary customs, where fish and dairy cannot be mixed with meat. Russ & Daughters operates under these culinary guidelines, focusing on a specific niche that caters to those who want to enjoy high-quality, kosher-style fish and dairy products.
Renowned for Cold ...
Here’s what you’ll find in our full summary
Russ & Daughters: Appetizing Store vs. Deli
Additional Materials
Actionables
- Explore the world of appetizing by hosting a themed tasting event with friends, featuring a variety of fish and dairy products. Start by researching different types of smoked salmon and cheeses, then create a menu that allows you and your guests to sample and compare flavors. This can be a fun way to educate yourself and others about the diversity within kosher-style appetizing.
- Create a personal guide to appetizing by visiting local stores that specialize in fish and dairy, documenting your experiences with their offerings. Take notes on the flavors, textures, and pairings you enjoy, and use this guide to refine your palate and knowledge of appetizing foods. This hands-on approach can deepen your appreciation for the craft behind these products.
- Incorporate appetizing into your cooking repertoire by developing recipes that highlig ...
Related Shortform Content
Get access to the context and additional materials
The Artistry and Craft of Hand-Slicing Smoked Fish
Niki Russ Federman reveals the precision and dedication necessary to master the slicing of salmon at the iconic Russ & Daughters.
Slicing Salmon At Russ & Daughters Is an Artform Requiring Skill
At Russ & Daughters, the esteemed delicatessen in New York, the act of slicing salmon is elevated to an artform necessitating expertise and finesse.
Russ & Daughters "Slicers" Cut Salmon Thinly, Enhancing Flavor and Texture
Niki Russ Federman demonstrates the meticulous process of slicing salmon, guiding the knife across the flesh with careful, slow strokes. Scott Simon observes as Federman illustrates how the thinness of the slice and the precise angle contribute to the subtlety of flavor and texture—an experience that thicker or machine-sliced pieces cannot replicate. The expert team of "slicers" at Russ & Daughters accomplish their craft with such fine accuracy that the finished product is almost translucent, allowing one to read the fine print on a cell phone contrac ...
Here’s what you’ll find in our full summary
The Artistry and Craft of Hand-Slicing Smoked Fish
Additional Materials
Clarifications
- Russ & Daughters is a historic New York City establishment founded in 1914, renowned for its high-quality smoked fish and traditional Jewish delicacies. It has become a cultural landmark, symbolizing authentic New York Jewish culinary heritage. The shop is celebrated for maintaining artisanal methods and exceptional product standards over generations. Its reputation attracts both locals and tourists seeking genuine, expertly prepared delicatessen foods.
- Slicing salmon thinly increases the surface area, allowing more contact with the palate and enhancing the perception of flavor. Thin slices also create a delicate texture that melts in the mouth, unlike thicker cuts which can feel dense or chewy. Machine slicing often lacks the precision to maintain consistent thinness and can damage the fish’s structure, reducing quality. Hand slicing preserves the fish’s integrity and ensures an optimal balance of flavor and texture.
- The intricate technique of slicing salmon involves controlling the knife angle to cut thin, even slices without tearing the flesh. Slicers use a long, flexible, and sharp knife to glide smoothly through the fish in a single motion. They must maintain consistent pressure and speed to preserve texture and appearance. Mastery also requires understanding the fish’s grain and fat distribution to enhance flavor.
- The apprenticeship is essential because it trains the slicer to develop muscle memory and control needed for consistent thin cuts. It also teaches how to handle the delicate texture of smoked salmon without damaging it. Apprentices learn to use specialized knives and understand the fish’s anatomy for optimal slicing. This hands-on experience ensures the quality and presentation that define Russ & Daughters’ reputation.
- "Almost translucent" means the salmon slices are so thin that light can pass through them, making them ...
Counterarguments
- While the artistry of hand-slicing salmon is emphasized, it could be argued that with advancements in technology, machine slicing can achieve a level of precision and consistency that matches hand-slicing, potentially making the process more efficient and less labor-intensive.
- The claim that thinner slices inherently enhance flavor and texture might be subjective, as some people may prefer the mouthfeel or taste of thicker slices, which could retain more moisture and a different flavor profile.
- The necessity of a three-month apprenticeship to learn salmon slicing could be seen as excessive, and some might argue that similar skills could be taught in a shorter timeframe or through alternative educational methods.
- The idea that the thinness of the slice allows one to read fine print through it might be seen as an unnecessary level of precision that does not necessarily contribute to the culinary experience.
- The focus on the artistry of slicing may overshadow other important aspects of the smoked fis ...
Get access to the context and additional materials
Family Legacy: Generational Ownership of Russ & Daughters
Russ & Daughters: A Century-Old Family Business, now Led by Fourth-Generation Niki Russ Federman and Josh Russ Tupper
Russ Family's Business Legacy
Russ & Daughters stands as a century-old institution on New York's Lower East Side. Currently, it is cherished and operated by cousins Niki Russ Federman and Josh Russ Tupper, making them the fourth generation of the Russ family to helm the family enterprise. Their tenure continues a tradition of craftsmanship passed down through generations, as exemplified by their Great Aunt Hattie, who was renowned for her skill in cutting fish.
Niki and Josh Committed To Preserving Russ & Daughters Legacy, Aiming to Pass To Fifth Generation
Niki discusses how Russ & Daughters serves as a "food of memory", connecting people to their heritage and personal past through its offerings. The dishes act as time portals, evoking deep-rooted nostalgia and recollections for those who partake. Niki and Josh inherited the family business from Niki's parents, and they've since expanded with the opening of the Russ & Daughters Cafe. Their commitment to ...
Here’s what you’ll find in our full summary
Family Legacy: Generational Ownership of Russ & Daughters
Additional Materials
Clarifications
- Russ & Daughters was founded in 1914 and is famous for its traditional Jewish appetizing foods like smoked fish, caviar, and bagels. It has become a symbol of New York City's immigrant history and Jewish culinary culture. The shop is celebrated for maintaining artisanal food preparation methods over generations. Its reputation extends beyond food, representing heritage, community, and continuity.
- "Food of memory" refers to dishes that evoke personal and cultural memories through taste and tradition. It connects people emotionally to their heritage and past experiences. In Russ & Daughters' case, it highlights how their traditional foods preserve Jewish immigrant culture. This concept underscores the business's role beyond food, as a keeper of identity and history.
- Great Aunt Hattie was a key family member in the early days of Russ & Daughters, known for her expertise in preparing smoked and cured fish. Her skill was notable because precise fish cutting is essential for quality and presentation in traditional Jewish delicacies. This craftsmanship helped establish the shop's reputation for excellence. Her legacy symbolizes the hands-on, artisanal approach that defines the family's culinary tradition.
- Russ & Daughters is famous for traditional Jewish delicacies like smoked fish (especially lox), bagels with cream cheese, and caviar. These foods are staples of Ashkenazi Jewish cuisine and are deeply tied to immigrant history in New York. The flavors and preparation methods have remained consistent for generations, creating a strong sense of cultural and familial nostalgia. Eating these dishes often reminds customers of family gatherings and heritage.
- Niki Russ Federman and Josh Russ Tupper are cousins who jointly lead Russ & Daughters as the fourth generation of family owners. Niki is the daughter of the previous generation who ran the business, while Josh is her cousin, both sharing a familial commitment to the brand. They collaborate closely but sometimes have differing opinions, reflecting their shared responsibility and passion for the business. Their roles involve preserving tradition while innovating, such as expanding with the Russ & Daughters Cafe.
- Generational ownership in family businesses means the company is passed down through multiple family members over time. It often strengthens the business's identity, values, and traditions. This continuity can build trust and loyalty among customers who value heritage. However, it also requires careful planning to manage succession and evolving market challenges.
- Preserving culinary authenticity means maintaining traditional recipes, techniques, and flavors despite modern trends and customer demands. It can be challenging because businesses must balance honoring heritage with adapting to new tastes and operational efficiencies. This often leads to disagreements on menu changes or ingredient sourcing. Successfully preserving authenticity helps retain loyal customers and the brand’s unique identity.
- The Russ & Daughters Cafe, opened by t ...
Get access to the context and additional materials
Cultural and Community Significance of Russ & Daughters
Russ & Daughters stands as a Lower East Side cultural icon deeply interwoven with the Jewish immigrant experience, acting as a community and culinary anchor by preserving tradition and a sense of place through times of rapid change.
Russ & Daughters: A Lower East Side Cultural Touchstone and Jewish Immigrant Experience
Niki Russ Federman elucidates the significance of Russ & Daughters not just as a shop, but as a conduit to heritage and history. She speaks about the store serving as a time portal, where the food acts as an anchor that connects customers to their ancestors and personal stories. Over the counter, people share tales of their forebears and relationships with the store, highlighting its resonance across generations.
For instance, Justice Ruth Bader Ginsburg, a lifelong patron, once shared how the name "Russ & Daughters" inspired her as a child, instilling the belief that women could be as pivotal to a business as men. This reflects the transformational nature of the shop, transcending commerce to inspire and affect societal viewpoints.
The Shop Connects To the Past, Reminding Customers of Family Histories and Traditions At Russ & Daughters For Generations
The significance of Russ & Daughters is rooted in its ability to evoke deeply personal memories through its offerings. Niki Russ Federman discusses how specific foods, like Matzah Br'ei, are tied not only to the shop's history but also to the intimate family customs and practices of its customers. An anecdote highlights the patrons' endeavors to recreate the flavors from memory, underscoring the establishment's important role in maintaining and honoring individual and collective pasts.
Federman mentions that for many, Russ & Daughters is akin to a pilgrimage site, one that allows them to trace their family's stories back to the neighborhood, emphasizing that each day at the shop is a powerful reminder of the value the pl ...
Here’s what you’ll find in our full summary
Cultural and Community Significance of Russ & Daughters
Additional Materials
Clarifications
- The Lower East Side of New York City was a primary entry point for millions of immigrants, especially Jewish immigrants, in the late 19th and early 20th centuries. It became a densely populated neighborhood known for its vibrant immigrant communities, cultural diversity, and working-class roots. The area played a crucial role in shaping American Jewish culture, including food, language, and traditions. Over time, it has symbolized both the challenges and resilience of immigrant life in America.
- The Jewish immigrant experience refers to the journey of Jewish people who moved to America, mainly in the late 19th and early 20th centuries, seeking safety and opportunity. They brought rich cultural traditions, religious practices, and foods that influenced American society. Their communities often formed tight-knit neighborhoods, like the Lower East Side, shaping urban culture and commerce. This experience contributed to America's diversity and helped preserve Jewish identity while blending into broader American life.
- Niki Russ Federman is a member of the Russ family that founded Russ & Daughters. She is part of the current generation managing the business. Her role involves preserving the store's heritage and sharing its cultural significance. She often speaks publicly about the store's history and community impact.
- Matzah Br'ei is a traditional Jewish dish made from matzah soaked in water, mixed with beaten eggs, and then fried like pancakes or scrambled eggs. It is commonly eaten during Passover, a holiday that commemorates the Israelites' exodus from Egypt, when leavened bread is forbidden. The dish symbolizes both the historical and religious significance of matzah as "unleavened bread." Its preparation and consumption connect families to their cultural heritage and religious traditions.
- Justice Ruth Bader Ginsburg was a pioneering figure for gender equality and women's rights in the U.S. Her admiration for Russ & Daughters reflects how the store's name symbolized female empowerment early on. This connection highlights the shop's influence beyond food, inspiring social change. It also underscores the cultural impact of Jewish immigrant heritage on American society.
- A "pilgrimage site" traditionally refers to a place of spiritual or cultural significance that people visit to connect with their beliefs or heritage. In the context of a food establishment like Russ & Daughters, it means the shop is a meaningful destination where people go to expe ...
Get access to the context and additional materials
Create Summaries for anything on the web
Download the Shortform Chrome extension for your browser
