Lost for Words: An Italian Word for a Beloved (and Debated) Mealtime Ritual

Today’s Untranslatable Word: Fare la Scarpetta

Fare la scarpetta (v.): Using bread to clean every last drop of sauce from your plate; literally, “make the little shoe.”

Pronunciation: FAH-reh lah skar-PET-tah

Origin: Italy

The Roots of the Scarpetta

Fare la scarpetta has its roots in cucina povera, the frugal cooking of Italy’s rural and working-class communities. In a world where wasting food was unthinkable, bread naturally became a means to collect and savor every last bit.

The arrival of the tomato in Italy in the mid-16th century solidified the practice in Italian culture. Tomatoes were initially treated with suspicion and grown mainly as ornamental plants due to their association with deadly nightshades, so it wasn’t until the late 17th and 18th centuries that tomatoes began appearing in Italian recipes. Early references to tomato sauces emerged from Naples, and the first documented pasta-with-tomato-sauce recipe appeared in 1790, published by Francesco Leonardi.

Before tomatoes, Italian sauces were thick and vegetable-based, less suited to bread for cleaning plates. The rise of lighter, tomato-based sauces, rich with liquid, created a perfect match for the custom of using bread to soak up sauces—a practice now known as scarpetta. Over generations, necessity became habit, habit became tradition, and today, scarpetta is celebrated as a cherished culinary ritual.

Bread, Sauce, and the Perfect Scarpetta

According to Italians, not every dish—or every loaf—is worthy of scarpetta:

• Bread: The ideal bread is sturdy, but still absorbent. Tuscan bread, made without salt, is often preferred because it lets sauces stand out. Ciabatta, which directly translates to “slipper,” is another common choice. Other rustic breads with firm crusts can also be used, provided they can hold up when dipped.
• Sauce: The sauce must be flavorful and plentiful enough to warrant bread dipping. Tomato sauces, with their liquid consistency, are most commonly associated with scarpetta. However, even other types of dishes, cooked with olive oil, melted butter, or pan juices, can be paired successfully with good bread.

While scarpetta remains a widespread practice in Italy, it conflicts with official formal dining rules. Italy’s 1558 etiquette guide, Il Galateo, still considered a foundation for modern Italian etiquette, frowns upon fare la scarpetta, associating it with poverty and improper hand use. However, most contemporary diners treat scarpetta as acceptable, especially if the dish merits it. This shift reflects a broader view of the gesture—not as bad manners, but as a simple way to honor the food.

The Ritual as Appreciation

Food writer Carlotta Panza wrote: “There is no finer compliment to one’s cuisine than a plate that has been fully and enthusiastically cleaned.” Using bread to finish a dish signals clear appreciation for the cook’s effort and skill. Fare la scarpetta can also slow the meal down, encouraging you to savor what’s on your plate rather than rushing through it.

At your next family dinner or festive gathering, consider indulging in a little scarpetta. Take a moment to mop up the sauce and honor the food, the person who prepared it, and the experience of enjoying it together.