PDF Summary:When Women Ran Fifth Avenue, by Julie Satow

During a period when the business world remained largely dominated by men, When Women Ran Fifth Avenue traces the pioneering journeys of Hortense Odlum, Dorothy Shaver, and Geraldine Stutz. These women shattered barriers and ascended to top leadership positions across premier retail institutions, including Bonwit Teller, Lord & Taylor, and Henri Bendel.

The narrative provides insight into their challenges navigating male-centric workplaces, societal pressures to conform to traditional gender roles, and personal sacrifices made to achieve career success. Their stories illuminate lesser-known figures who championed American fashion design, pioneered retail innovations, and played pivotal roles in empowering women's professional advancement.

(continued)...

Elsie's unpublished memoir provides distinctive insights into the dynamics among siblings and Dorothy's deliberate choice to stay single.

Julie Satow delved into the unpublished memoir of Elsie, which uncovers the enthralling narrative of her existence inextricably linked with her older sibling and Dorothy's choice to focus on her profession instead of the conventional route of marriage and family life. Dorothy terminated her engagement while she was teaching in Arkansas and moved to Chicago to join her sibling, who was engaged in the study of art. The dynamics of their engagements with men appeared to follow a comparable trajectory within the boundaries of New York City. According to family tales, when one sister began to develop feelings, the other, feeling a sense of rivalry, would swiftly intervene, leading to a situation where, as Elsie narrated, Dorothy dedicated herself entirely to building a distinguished profession and henceforth, was steadfast in her resolve.

Dorothy expressed no public regret for her decision to stay single. Dorothy, at the helm of Lord & Taylor, consistently evaded questions about whether she was married, invariably replying with the confident statement, "I wouldn't change places with anyone."

The changing dynamics of women in the workforce are reflected in the personal and marital relationships of Geraldine Stutz.

The early tumultuous marriage of Geraldine Stutz to David Gibbs highlighted the tension between her professional ambitions and the traditional expectations placed on women.

Dorothy remained single her entire life, whereas Geraldine entered into matrimony on two occasions. Geraldine first tied the knot with the engaging British art dealer, David Gibbs, whom she met at a social event. Satow highlights the contrast between Geraldine's vibrant and triumphant professional life and the difficulties faced by David, an appealing Englishman, as he struggled to match her pace. David was initially dismissive of Geraldine’s ambitions. At their first encounter, he was entirely oblivious to Geraldine's professional achievements. Her involvement in the beauty salon appeared to be of lesser importance. Geraldine's professional triumphs at Bendel's were markedly different from her private life experiences, as she grappled with the growing strain of being known as "Mr. Jerry Stutz," which escalated tensions with David and ultimately resulted in the dissolution of their eleven-year marriage.

Geraldine's collaboration with Gibbs exemplified the increasing acknowledgment of women's contributions in the professional sphere, highlighted by laws like the Equal Pay Act of 1963 and the Civil Rights Act of 1964, which occasionally conflicted with traditional perspectives on gender roles and norms. Geraldine came to realize that her affluence and accomplishments could not shield her from the considerable obstacles she faced in this new environment.

After her divorce, Geraldine chose to remain unmarried, dedicating her energies to the prestigious Henri Bendel brand rather than seeking a new marriage.

Satow characterizes the marriage of Geraldine and Gibbs as a pivotal foundation that enhanced her capacity to overcome ongoing self-doubts, which in turn increased her confidence and laid the groundwork for her professional achievements. Geraldine, now an adult and CEO, recognized that her childhood, shaped by the strictness of Catholic teachings that emphasized obedience and downplayed personal significance, particularly regarding the societal expectations of women, left a deep and lasting impression on her. Geraldine was determined to showcase her capabilities to those prominent individuals who significantly influenced her existence. At first, I sought validation from the key maternal presence in my life, then from the head nun, and ultimately from the top echelons of the church, exactly in that order. However, her collaboration with Gibbs was pivotal in Geraldine's transformation from a "tap dancer" to a woman who realized her true ambitions in her personal life as well as her professional endeavors. While she was sad at the break-up of her marriage, after she and Gibbs divorced, Geraldine never remarried. She expressed that although sharing a life of happiness with someone is ideal, it is more desirable to live a tranquil life alone than to suffer alongside another person.

After her separation, Geraldine channeled her efforts into growing Bendel's, a venture she fondly considered her own creation, and took pleasure in guiding it, until a point came when she had to choose between her cherished business and the course proposed by a new owner, which resulted in her leaving to pursue new opportunities.

Other Perspectives

• While Hortense Odlum may have experienced conflict between her career and family life, it's possible that her career also provided her with a sense of identity and fulfillment that could have been positive for her personal growth.
• The idea that women should not work outside the family is a dated concept, and many women find that having a career is empowering and contributes positively to their family dynamics.
• The close bond between Dorothy and Elsie Shaver could be seen as a strength that allowed them to support each other's ambitions and successes, rather than a limitation on their personal lives.
• Elsie's unpublished memoir represents only one perspective on Dorothy's life choices; Dorothy herself may have had different reasons for staying single that were unrelated to her professional ambitions.
• Geraldine Stutz's marriage to David Gibbs and her decision to remain unmarried could be interpreted as a personal choice that reflects her individual priorities and desires, rather than a broader statement about the role of women in the workforce.
• The tension between Geraldine's career and her marriage to David Gibbs might not solely be attributed to societal expectations but could also involve personal compatibility issues that are common in many relationships, regardless of career ambitions.
• The narrative could benefit from exploring the positive aspects of women's careers on their personal lives and relationships, offering a more balanced view of the impact of professional success on women's roles in society.

Department stores served as vital centers for cultural, social, and political interaction.

Department stores transformed into prominent spaces that not only facilitated cultural happenings and displayed artistic works but also became centers for political conversation.

Hortense Odlum and Dorothy Shaver, at the helm of two distinguished retail institutions, championed forward-thinking endeavors and honored distinguished figures.

Satow underscores that during the early 20th century, as the prominence of major retail stores in the country increased, so too did their engagement in public affairs, which went beyond their commercial functions to encompass the arrangement of cultural events, the hosting of exhibitions for artwork, and the provision of venues for political discussions. Hortense, for instance, arranged social events in the luxurious ballrooms of renowned hotels such as the Plaza and the St. Regis, where patrons of Bonwit Teller could purchase passes to engage in discussions about subjects such as perfecting the skill of dressing to enchant their significant others, and to observe elegant fashion shows featuring lavish gowns. Dorothy Shaver, meanwhile, used Lord & Taylor's annual American Design Award luncheons to honor figures from far outside the realm of fashion, including Albert Einstein and Agnes de Mille.

Hortense and Dorothy selected their locations for their ease of access. The assemblies attracted a significant number of patrons, thereby enhancing the visibility and financial success of their brands. Satow makes a persuasive case that these women leveraged their roles at the helm of department stores to champion their personal perspectives and goals. These endeavors also offered a stage for them to advocate for progressive movements and celebrate advancements in the realm of social equality.

Geraldine Stutz propelled this trend forward by leveraging her status at a prominent clothing store to promote avant-garde artwork and nurture up-and-coming talent in the realm of fashion design.

Geraldine Stutz was of the opinion that department stores functioned not merely as places of commerce but also as hubs for social engagement, and she championed the idea of pushing cultural boundaries beyond what Hortense and Dorothy had envisioned. She orchestrated extravagant showcases for up-and-coming fashion creators, notably a significant showcase for Stephen Burrows, where models, clad in avant-garde, body-hugging attire, strutted down an improvised runway illuminated by the light of makeup mirrors, surrounded by a lively crowd occupying every available area. Geraldine's innovative presentation of mannequins within a dimly lit ambiance at Bendel's, reminiscent of a lesbian bar's atmosphere, caught the more traditional customers off guard.

Geraldine possessed a keen sense for attracting media attention and recognized the allure of controversial topics. Her events and showcases often merged cutting-edge artistic elements with the most recent trends in haute couture, together creating a unique style that became emblematic of Bendel's. Geraldine, following the example of her predecessors, utilized these communal spaces to champion progressive causes, such as advocating for a diverse workforce and supporting women in their quest for career advancement and the embrace of their individuality.

The increasing involvement of female department store leaders in social and political issues reflected a broader trend of women becoming more engaged in public life.

Hortense, Dorothy, and Geraldine each utilized their prominence and societal positions to advocate for numerous initiatives, such as civil rights and the freedom of conscience.

Satow details how each woman leveraged her position in the retail industry to engage with the societal and political issues prevalent during that era. Hortense was a fervent advocate for improving the status of women and, although she opposed the notion of women pursuing professional careers, she wrote articles for different magazines and gave talks at gatherings that concentrated on matters pertaining to women. She also backed Wendell L. Willkie, the Republican presidential candidate, and expressed her opposition to the Democratic President Franklin Delano Roosevelt, including his spouse Eleanor. Dorothy fervently supported racial equality, which was demonstrated through her financial support for the United Negro College Fund and her pioneering decision to employ an African American saleswoman at a well-known New York department store. During Senator McCarthy's anti-Communist campaign, Dorothy defended the liberty of personal beliefs and actively opposed the growing zeal for uniformity, encouraging her followers to resist the pressure to conform to societal norms.

Geraldine utilized Bendel's renown to highlight Stephen Burrows' creations and to back members of the LGBT community, including Joel Schumacher. Geraldine, following in the footsteps of those before her, boldly confronted conventional norms and advocated for women's rights.

Other Perspectives

• While department stores did serve as centers for cultural, social, and political interaction, it could be argued that their primary function remained commercial, and these additional roles were often a means to enhance their brand and drive sales rather than purely altruistic cultural contributions.
• The transformation of department stores into spaces for cultural events and political discussions may have been limited to certain urban centers and may not reflect the role of department stores in smaller communities or more rural areas.
• The forward-thinking endeavors championed by Hortense Odlum and Dorothy Shaver, while progressive, may have also been influenced by marketing strategies aimed at attracting a certain clientele and thus may not have been entirely motivated by social advocacy.
• The engagement of department stores in public affairs could be seen as a strategic move to position themselves as cultural leaders, which could potentially overshadow local or independent cultural initiatives that lacked the same resources.
• The events that attracted patrons and enhanced visibility and financial success of department stores might have been exclusive and not accessible to all segments of society, potentially reinforcing social divides.
• The increased engagement of female department store leaders in public life, while significant, may not fully represent the experiences of all women in the workforce, particularly those in lower-level positions or in less visible roles.
• Advocacy for civil rights and freedom of conscience by female leaders in department stores may have been constrained by the commercial interests of their businesses and the need to maintain a broad customer base.
• Hortense's advocacy for women's status, while commendable, may have been limited by her own views on women's professional careers, which could be seen as a conservative stance that did not fully embrace the feminist movement of the time.
• Dorothy's support for racial equality and opposition to McCarthyism, while progressive, may have been part of a larger trend among certain business elites rather than indicative of widespread change within the retail industry.
• Geraldine's promotion of avant-garde artwork and support for the LGBT community, while pioneering, may have also served to differentiate Bendel's in a competitive retail market, aligning with business objectives as much as social advocacy.
• The merging of artistic elements with haute couture trends by Geraldine could be critiqued as commercializing art and potentially diluting the purity of artistic expression for the sake of fashion and retail trends.

The transformation of marketing approaches, visual presentation, and brand growth within the most significant retail spaces.

Department stores underwent a transformation by adopting innovative selling strategies and redesigning their interiors to match the changing preferences of consumers and the dynamic market conditions.

Hortense Odlum revitalized Bonwit Teller by including fashion choices that were affordable and accessible, altering the store's aesthetic and organizational design.

Satow recounts the era when Hortense took the helm of Bonwit Teller, which was on the brink of financial ruin. Hortense recognized the importance of attracting new customers to reverse the downward trend. Hortense infused her energy into initiating a variety of innovative improvements, encompassing both the architectural aspects of the store and the diversity of products and conveniences offered. Caroline Schermerhorn Astor's clever decision to place the Bonwit Teller hat shop on the ground level, which was more accessible than a less prominent upper level, greatly increased the sales of impromptu purchases like hats.

Hortense recognized the potential of department stores to attract a diverse range of customers, not limited to the wealthy. She persuaded Seventh Avenue garment manufacturers to produce well-made but affordably priced fashion for Bonwit Teller, a pioneering move that drew in new shoppers and helped to establish her store as a leader in both high and mid-range retail fashion.

Geraldine Stutz revolutionized Henri Bendel's main floor with the innovative "Street of Shops," attracting a varied and younger customer base.

Geraldine Stutz, much like Hortense, recognized the necessity of reinventing not only the brand but also the physical space of the iconic Henri Bendel to maintain its significance in a changing market. She enlisted the expertise of the distinguished display designer H. McKim Glazebrook to bring her vision to life. They pioneered a new approach to their building's ground floor, resulting in the establishment of a unique shopping area known as "the Street of Shops," which introduced customers to the concept of incorporating boutique-like sections within the expansive setting of major department stores.

Geraldine and Glazebrook observed that, in contrast to the more expansive spaces of rivals like Lord & Taylor, Bendel's main floor was compact and rectangular, posing a distinct challenge due to its layout. Rather than fight these deficiencies, they capitalized on them. Glazebrook's vision was for shoppers to stroll leisurely down a street that echoed Paris's exclusive fashion district, now a serene, intimate assemblage of distinctively decorated shops, centered around a courtyard made with mosaic tiles and distinguished by a softly bubbling fountain. The store's selection of goods was chosen with great care and deliberately kept from view. The architectural layout of the structure piqued the interest of visitors, prompting them to wander around and frequently indulge in impromptu buying. The inauguration of the Street of Shops in 1959 gained worldwide acclaim and established a model that was replicated by competitors globally, transforming the retail tactics of department stores.

Department stores encountered new obstacles from rival businesses, which led to varied results in their attempts to revitalize their brands.

Pioneers like Dorothy Shaver and Geraldine Stutz had to adapt their traditional retail strategies in response to the rise of suburban malls and discount outlets.

Satow documents the decline of traditional retail stores, a trend initiated by the growth of suburban shopping centers and the rise of budget-friendly stores starting in the 1950s. Dorothy Shaver, who led Lord & Taylor for many years, initiated an expansion strategy that involved opening new stores first in the surrounding regions of New York and later in Philadelphia, thereby extending the company's presence beyond the central urban area. She sought to replicate her success at Lord & Taylor’s famed Fifth Avenue flagship, using similar in-store design concepts and opening new departments such as the Bird Cage lunch counter.

Geraldine Stutz, conversely, possessed a differing viewpoint. She was convinced that solely catering to suburban clientele wouldn't suffice for Bendel's expansion; thus, she highlighted her refined style to maintain customer interest and allegiance to the brand. With the onset of the 1980s, Geraldine understood the importance of adopting a new strategy. She aimed to elevate Bendel's into a nationally known brand by creating luxurious shopping spaces in wealthy suburban areas from Palo Alto, California, to Barrington, Illinois, but the economic burden of launching these high-end projects was ultimately too great. The expansion of the clothing industry across the country led to the rise of imitators, and Geraldine recognized that her idea of in-store boutiques had lost its uniqueness and exclusivity.

Under Geraldine's guidance, substantial transformations occurred at Henri Bendel prior to its eventual concession to commercial forces.

Satow adeptly illustrates the challenges faced by retail emporiums as the twentieth century wound down, emphasizing their diminishing supremacy in the American marketplace, a situation that precipitated a series of insolvencies and acquisitions, ultimately resulting in the significant reduction of these once-prevalent shopping destinations. In the wake of Hortense Odlum and Mildred Custin’s leadership roles, Bonwit Teller cycled through an astounding eight presidents in less than a decade, none able to maintain the store’s cachet. The firm's swift expansion into suburban areas cast uncertainty, considering its traditional dependence on the allure of its famous Fifth Avenue site to attract clientele. In 1979, Genesco sold off Bonwit Teller’s many branches. Even more humiliating was that Donald Trump demolished the iconic Bonwit Teller building, which was renowned for its Art Deco design, to construct Trump Tower, and then confined the store within a neighboring space that was markedly smaller and lacked the previous location's sophistication.

After Dorothy Shaver's unforeseen death led to alterations in the top management, Lord & Taylor similarly saw a downturn. Having weathered the economic storms of the Great Depression and the worldwide strife of World War II, the department store now faced heightened competition from discount chains and mall retailers, while the rise of online shopping presented an additional obstacle. Bendel's, under the ongoing guidance of Geraldine Stutz, persevered for some time despite facing competition from discounters offering lower prices and the allure of high-end fashion seekers drawn to Bergdorf Goodman. Ultimately, Geraldine was compelled to relinquish her cherished enterprise to a retail magnate with considerable wealth, the man leading The Limited, whose preference for mass-market fashion over Bendel's distinct high-end sophistication marked the demise of her vision for the boutique.

Practical Tips

• You can revitalize a local community space by organizing a pop-up event that showcases affordable, handcrafted items from local artisans. By collaborating with these artisans, you create an opportunity for them to reach new customers while giving the community access to unique, budget-friendly products. For example, transform a community center into a temporary marketplace for a weekend, inviting neighbors to discover and purchase locally made goods.
• Experiment with placing popular or eye-catching items in easily accessible areas of your home or office to encourage usage or sharing. This mirrors the strategy of placing a hat shop on the ground level to increase purchases. For instance, if you have books you want to read more often, place them on a coffee table rather than tucked away on a shelf. This could lead to more impromptu reading sessions or conversations with guests about the books.
• Create a themed display in your living space that rotates monthly, showcasing various items that reflect your interests or seasonal themes. This approach is inspired by the "Street of Shops" concept and can be a conversation starter when you have guests. For example, in October, you might feature fall-related items like decorative leaves, pumpkin-spiced candles, and a selection of horror novels, creating an engaging and dynamic environment in your home.

The impact that female-led department stores had on society and culture throughout the 20th century.

During the era in which Hortense, Dorothy, and Geraldine were at the helm of department stores, there was a concurrent rise in job opportunities for women.

Their achievements in the commercial sector challenged the prevailing assumptions about women's capabilities in corporate leadership.

During a period of significant social change, Hortense, Dorothy, and Geraldine established benchmarks through their individual retail dynasties, defying conventional norms regarding the potential and roles of women. They led businesses in an industry typically controlled by men, oversaw complex monetary transactions involving large amounts of capital, and directed a sizable number of employees, all while navigating obstacles unique to their gender during an era when the role of women in American society was increasingly debated. Satow emphasizes the vital assistance given to female employees during the 1960s and 1970s, which was strengthened by significant legal and legislative measures, including the introduction of the Equal Pay Act in the year before and Title VII as a component of the Civil Rights Act in the subsequent year. Despite these significant strides forward, the trio of women highlighted in this narrative still had to grapple with entrenched sexist attitudes and limiting societal norms regarding gender.

They were all, however, masterful at leveraging their status to draw attention to their perspectives regarding the role of women in the workforce, whether by penning pieces for newspapers and trade publications, aligning with the nascent women's movement to deliver addresses at female gatherings, or spearheading campaigns to celebrate the accomplishments of American designers, thus elevating the stature of fashion to be recognized as a significant influence on society and culture. These initiatives laid the groundwork that would advantage future generations of female leaders and aid in the creation of equitable and forward-thinking business tactics in the modern era.

The establishments they directed evolved into significant centers for both economic and social empowerment among women workers and patrons.

Satow details the ascent of these women as they shattered conventional constraints, ascending to positions of power and utilizing their sway to mentor and advance the next generation of women in their professions. Hortense, Dorothy, and Geraldine played a pivotal role in creating business environments that, despite inherent flaws and the widespread gender biases and challenges of their era, significantly supported their female employees. At the beginning of her professional journey in a junior managerial role at Lord & Taylor, Dorothy was dedicated to creating a welcoming environment for women workers and vigorously supported the progression of women's rights.

Geraldine of Bendel was celebrated for her keen eye in identifying and cultivating the skills of women, often encouraging and developing their potential before they were aware of it themselves. She garnered praise for establishing weekly auditions on Fridays, providing a platform for new designers of all genders to launch their careers. Geraldine's sophisticated palate did not hinder her from defying conventional norms; she assembled and promoted a diverse cadre of designers, incorporating individuals from marginalized communities, and supported avant-garde fashion trends.

The fates of these pioneering women reflected the broader evolution of women's societal positions and the expansion of the department store industry.

As the splendor of the expansive retail establishments diminished, so too did the lasting influence of these trailblazing women entrepreneurs.

In her analysis of their later years, Satow reveals how the lives of Hortense, Dorothy, and Geraldine mirrored the evolution of luxurious retail emporiums. Hortense, feeling disconnected from her work and estranged from her relatives, made the decision to step down from her decade-long position at the helm of Bonwit Teller. Dorothy's passing came at the height of her career, during a time characterized by her unwavering dedication to the upscale department store, Lord & Taylor. Her foresight in growing Lord & Taylor beyond New York proved to be astute, with shopping centers and outlying stores becoming a significant power in retail. Geraldine, who was reluctant to adapt to the evolving commercial landscape, showed remarkable determination, working relentlessly to secure the continued existence of the beloved store. Geraldine ultimately relinquished her quaint, high-end boutique and the unique heritage she had created, yielding to a contemporary age of business that favored broad appeal and economic profit over her unique vision of specialized clothing and personalized service.

As the importance of the grand department stores diminished, so too did the recognition of these women's pivotal roles in the public memory. While some historians recognize their achievements in the realms of style and business, and institutions like Parsons School of Design hold Geraldine's period at Bendel's in high esteem, these trailblazers are yet to receive broad recognition today in spite of their considerable successes.

The stories of these women illuminate their pivotal yet often overlooked contributions to the development and transformation of the retail and fashion industries in the United States.

Satow convincingly demonstrates that Hortense, Dorothy, and Geraldine played a pivotal role in reshaping 20th-century commerce by introducing groundbreaking concepts like a specialized shopping area and advancing the evolution of the United States' garment sector. Dorothy's advocacy for domestic designers and her push to create a distinctive American style, coupled with Geraldine's fearless promotion of cutting-edge fashions and dedication to fostering emerging talent without regard to sex or race, played a pivotal role in propelling American fashion to a stature that challenged Paris's long-established high fashion dominance. Their achievements established a foundation for future generations of working women and transformed societal views and expectations about women in leadership roles as time progressed.

Satow contends that their narratives extend well beyond the realms of commerce or style. They explore the difficulties encountered while striving for their goals, the concessions women are required to make to succeed in a setting frequently hostile to their drive, and the lasting consequences of choices made concerning their careers, personal connections, and family matters. The considerable and lasting contributions of these women not only shed light on their era but also continue to resonate, marked by challenges that are surprisingly familiar and triumphs that remain motivational.

Other Perspectives

• While Hortense, Dorothy, and Geraldine made significant strides, it's important to recognize that they were still part of a privileged minority who had access to leadership roles, which wasn't reflective of the broader experience of most women at the time.
• The narrative may overemphasize the role of individual leaders and understate the collective efforts of countless unnamed women and allies who also contributed to societal changes.
• The impact of legal measures like the Equal Pay Act and Title VII may be overstated, as the enforcement of these laws was often weak, and pay disparities and discrimination persisted.
• The idea that these women's establishments became centers for economic and social empowerment could be nuanced by acknowledging that not all women, particularly women of color and those from lower socioeconomic backgrounds, may have felt empowered in these spaces.
• The decline of the department store industry and the waning influence of these women entrepreneurs might not solely be due to changing retail landscapes but also to broader economic and technological shifts that affected many industries.
• The assertion that these women propelled American fashion to challenge Paris's dominance could be contextualized within the global dynamics of the fashion industry, where Paris still held significant sway.
• The suggestion that their contributions continue to resonate and inspire might be tempered by acknowledging that many women today may not be aware of their legacies or feel the impact of their specific contributions.
• The challenges faced by women in leadership roles as described in the narratives might not fully represent the diversity of experiences among women across different industries, cultures, and time periods.