PDF Summary:The Simple Path to Wealth, by JL Collins
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1-Page PDF Summary of The Simple Path to Wealth
In The Simple Path to Wealth, blogger and financial expert JL Collins offers a simple road map to achieving financial independence and a secure retirement: Spend less than you make, avoid debt, save “F-You Money,” and invest in stock index funds. He demystifies stocks and bonds, as well as a plethora of investment plan options. In addition to explaining basic concepts such as asset allocation, Collins answers key questions such as how to live on your investments and how to avoid major tax hits.
Whether you’re in the wealth accumulation stage of life where you’re growing your investments, or in the wealth preservation stage where you’re living on them, Collins tells you how to use your money to achieve freedom and a more fulfilling life.
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Index funds like VTSAX are groups of stocks chosen to passively replicate the market’s performance. In contrast, actively managed mutual funds are stocks chosen and managed by professionals who attempt to outperform the market. Collins recommends index fund investing over managed funds because index funds get better results and have lower fees. The chances of anyone regularly selecting stocks that beat the market are minuscule, so you can get better results by buying into an index that contains a lot of stocks that grow steadily over time.
2) Bonds: When you’re nearing retirement, you’ll want to shift some money (about 25%) from stocks into bonds, which are less volatile. Bonds pay interest and counter the ups and downs of your stocks fund. They also serve as a hedge against deflation (declining prices) because in these periods, bonds increase in value. Collins’s choice is VBTLX, Vanguard Total Bond Market Index Fund.
3) Accessible cash: You need accessible cash for expenses and emergencies. It’s also another deflation hedge. When prices drop, your cash buys more. But when prices rise, cash buys less. Don’t keep more cash than you need because when interest rates are low, cash has little interest-earning potential. You can keep your cash in a checking account or a money market account, whichever offers higher interest.
Investment Plan Options
Your two index funds (stocks and bonds) are your investments. Next, you need an investment plan or account in which to hold them. Options include 401(k), 403(b), TSP, IRA, and Roth accounts, which are tax-advantaged accounts.
The government created tax-advantaged accounts to encourage people to save for retirement. The dividends, interest, and capital gains earned by investments in these accounts (except Roth accounts) aren’t taxed until you withdraw the money. There are many varieties of 401(k) and IRA accounts; this section looks at the basic account types.
Employer-Provided Plans
In an employer-provided investment plan, such as a 401(k), your company hires an investment firm that offers a range of investment options such as VTSAX or other index funds. When you choose funds and contribute, many companies will match your contribution up to a limit. There’s an IRS cap on the amount you can contribute annually; Collins recommends you choose an index fund and always contribute the maximum. Here are some comparisons of features:
401(k) and 403(b) Plans
- Your contributions are tax-deductible.
- You’ll owe taxes when you withdraw the money.
- You’ll pay a penalty if you withdraw money before age 59½.
- You have to make RMDs, or required minimum distributions (mandated withdrawals), starting at age 72.
Roth 401(k)
- Your contributions are not tax-deductible.
- The earnings from your investments are tax-exempt.
- Anything you withdraw after 59½ is tax-exempt.
- You have to make RMDs starting at age 72.
- There isn’t any income limit for participating, as there is for a Roth IRA (more on this below).
TSPs (Thrift Savings Plans)
TSPs or Thrift Savings Plans are tax-deferred retirement plans similar to a 401(k) for federal employees, including members of the military. TSPs offer five basic types of low-cost funds, including an option that tracks the S&P 500 index.
IRAs
IRAs are tax-advantaged accounts you hold individually in addition to employer-provided plans like 401(k)s.
- You can only contribute earned income or money rolled over from an employer plan to an IRA. Earned income is money you’re paid for your work (which has already been taxed).
- There are several types of IRAs. Deductible IRAs and Roth IRAs have an income limit, but non-deductible IRAs have none.
- There’s an annual cap on the amount you can contribute, with a higher one for those age 50 and older.
Deductible IRA
- Contributions are income-tax deductible (this is phased out as income increases).
- Taxes are deferred on your earnings but are due when you withdraw money.
- There’s a penalty for early withdrawals.
- RMDs apply.
Non-Deductible IRA
- Your contributions are not tax-deductible.
- There aren’t any income limits for participation.
- Taxes are deferred on your earnings but are due when you withdraw money.
- You don’t pay any taxes on your original contribution because it was made with “after-tax” money. (Figuring out what you owe can be complicated.)
- There’s a penalty for early withdrawals.
- RMDs apply.
Roth IRA
- Your contributions are not tax-deductible.
- Your eligibility to contribute is based on your income level. You can’t contribute to a Roth IRA if your income exceeds an annual limit.
- After age 59½, the money you withdraw is tax-free.
- You can withdraw your original contribution anytime without a tax or penalty.
- After five years, you can withdraw contributions that were transfers from a regular IRA without a tax or penalty.
- You can withdraw money anytime for a first-time home purchase or college-related expenses.
- There are no RMDs.
Collins recommends that when you leave your job, you roll your 401(k) into an IRA to retain the tax advantage.
Withdrawing Your Money
When you stop working or retire, a key question is: How much money can you withdraw from your portfolio each year without running out of money before you die?
The common recommendation of 4% a year (the 4% rule) is one piece of retirement advice that actually works. The rule was developed in 1988 by three professors who ran computer simulations to test the impact of different percentage withdrawal rates on various portfolios over a 30-year period. They updated the research in 2009 (adding another 21 years). They found that:
- Over 30 years, a portfolio split 50-50 between stocks and bonds, with a 4% withdrawal rate adjusted for inflation, remained stable 96% of the time.
- In 55 years, the portfolio lost ground only twice. In the other 53 years, it continued to grow robustly, meaning the investor could have withdrawn more than 4% without reducing the total.
Collins draws the following conclusions:
- Withdrawing 3% or less a year is as close to a safe bet as you can get.
- If you hold 75% of your assets in stocks and 25% in bonds, you can safely withdraw under 4% a year and take an increase for inflation.
- If you don’t take annual inflation increases, you can withdraw up to 6% a year while keeping a balance of 50-50 in stocks and bonds.
- You can withdraw as much as 7% if you watch the market and, if it drops, cut back on spending and withdrawals until it rises again.
- Collins’s personal strategy is to withdraw around 5%, but to reduce withdrawals to 4% if the market drops.
It’s also important to be flexible—if you can reduce your expenses when necessary, find temporary work, or move to a cheaper area, you can add a layer of security regardless of the withdrawal rate you choose.
Setting Up Your Withdrawals
The process of withdrawing 4% a year from your investment portfolio is simple:
- Request that your investment firm transfer to your bank account a certain amount of money weekly, monthly, or however often you choose.
- Also request that ongoing capital gains, dividends, and interest be transferred to your account.
- Or log in to the website and transfer money yourself anytime (or combine automatic and manual transfers).
Drawing Social Security
The Social Security system has been sustainable in the past, but as large numbers of Baby Boomers retire and live longer, the payroll taxes that support it will fall short of payouts if nothing is done to fix it.
Thus, depending on your current age, your experience with Social Security likely will vary:
- If you’re 55 or older, you’ll collect the full amount you’re entitled to because politicians won’t take anything away from such a large group of voters. That’s why the solutions proposed so far to shore up the system only affect those 55 and under.
- If you’re under 55, you’ll receive benefits, but they'll be smaller than those older recipients are getting today.
Although Social Security likely will survive in some form, plan as though Social Security won’t be there for you—that is, follow the simple path to wealth of living beneath your means, staying out of debt, saving F-You money, and investing in index funds. If you get Social Security, it will be a bonus.
Deciding When to Take the Money
If you’re 55 or older, you need to decide when to start claiming Social Security benefits. You can start at age 62, but the sooner you start, the smaller your checks will be. The longer you hold off up to age 70, the larger they’ll be, but you’ll have fewer years to collect them.
Some advisors offer complicated strategies, but as with investing, you’ll be better off keeping things simple. Consider the following in order:
- When do you need the money? If you need it now, take it—but for each month you’re able to delay, your monthly payment will increase.
- How long do you expect to live? Are you in good health? Do you come from a long-lived family? The longer you live, the more you stand to gain by delaying payments. The break-even point for people between the ages of 62 and 66 is 84, meaning that if you live longer than 84 years, you’ll collect more if you wait until after age 66. You might want to claim benefits sooner if you don’t think you’ll live to age 84.
- If you’re married and earn more than your spouse, when you die, your spouse can swap their benefit for your larger one. If you put off taking Social Security until age 70, your surviving spouse will get more. In the interim, they can claim their lower benefits.
Conclusion
Encapsulating the principles in this book, here is the initial 10-year investment path that Collins recommended for his young-adult daughter at the start of her career:
- Avoid debt.
- Spend the first decade of your career working hard to build your skills and reputation.
- Take time for (inexpensive) adventures.
- Don’t increase your spending as your income increases. (Remember, financial independence is not only about building wealth, but also about controlling your spending.)
- Invest half of your income. Put it in VTSAX or a similar fund.
- Make the maximum contribution to your 401(k) plan, especially if it offers an employer match.
- Fund a Roth IRA when your income and taxes are low; when your income rises, fund a traditional IRA.
Collins told his daughter that if she did these things for the next decade, she’d approach financial independence in her early-to-mid-30s.
Once you’ve achieved financial independence and can live on 4% of your investments, continue your career or do something new. If you keep working, invest all of your income (which will increase the amount 4% represents). Consider buying a house, having children, and giving to charity. The reason you save and invest is to create options and opportunities to enrich your life.
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PDF Summary Introduction
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F-You Money, plus the money you invest for your long-term future, both buy you freedom—and your freedom is the most important thing your money can buy. Ultimately, your goal is financial independence, the point where you can live on 4% of your nest egg a year without having to work for the rest of your life. (Your nest egg remains stable or grows if you withdraw only 4% a year and the market grows.)
The more you save and invest, the sooner you’ll have F-You Money and the sooner you’ll be financially independent. Saving and investing half your income is achievable when you learn to live modestly on the other half and don’t borrow.
Financial independence is as much about living frugally as it is about having savings and investments. If you’re laid off after 20-plus years and quickly find yourself broke, you haven’t learned to live within your means. But you can learn to live so that you’re not a slave to money because of your lifestyle and thus, not a slave to your job.
Collins and his family achieved financial independence and retired early by doing three things: avoiding debt, saving 50% of their income, and investing in Vanguard index funds. In this book,...
PDF Summary Part 1: How to Think About Money | Chapter 1: Debt Isn’t Normal
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- Step 3: Pay the minimum on all debts, then direct any remaining money toward paying down the debt with the highest interest rate first (this saves the most money).
- Step 4: When the highest-interest debt is paid off, focus on the one with the next-highest interest rate, and so on.
Collins differs with popular financial advisor Dave Ramsey in advising that you pay off the loans with the highest rates first. Ramsey and others tell you to pay off your loans in the order of their size, starting with the smallest ones first. Ramsey contends that starting small and racking up some successes gives you a psychological boost that motivates you to take progressively bigger steps.
But Collins argues that starting small to give yourself the quickest success is a crutch; you’re adapting your methods to your comfort level. Instead, you should become comfortable with the right strategy: in this case, paying off the loans with the highest interest rate first to save the most money.
(Shortform note: For more on the alternate method of paying off debts, read our summary of The Total Money Makeover here.)
What...
PDF Summary Chapters 2-4: Change Your Mindset to Build Wealth
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Many people can’t build wealth because they live a high-consumption lifestyle relative to their income—they spend whatever they make and therefore have no money to save and invest.
Even high-income people have trouble making ends meet or they go broke by overspending. For example, boxer Mike Tyson ended up bankrupt in 2003 despite earning over $300 million—he blew it on fleets of luxury vehicles, Siberian tigers, a 21-bedroom mansion, an entourage of hangers-on, and more.
Like Tyson, many people think of money in terms of what it can buy. If your goal is building wealth and achieving financial independence, you need to think of money in terms of what it can earn. With this mindset, even lower-income earners can become wealthy by limiting their spending and investing whatever they don’t need for expenses.
Even if you overspent in the past, it’s never too late to start thinking differently about money and how to use it. Remember the “simple path” formula: Spend less than you make, invest the extra, and stay out of debt—and you can “buy” your financial independence.
Think About Opportunity Costs
Collins doesn’t argue that you should never spend money, just...
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Learn more about our summaries →PDF Summary Part 2: The Market and How to Invest | Chapters 5-9: How the Market Works
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- Owning stock is owning part of a company working hard to compete and succeed in an economy that rewards the strong and eliminates the weak. So again, the strongest prevail and their stock values increase.
Truth #3: The market is volatile: Market crashes (drops of 20% or more) are inevitable—a major meltdown typically occurs about every 25 years, plus there are more frequent smaller drops in that timeframe as well as several bull (increasing) markets.
There’s always a major crash somewhere ahead—for example, on October 19, 1987, on Black Monday, the market suddenly dropped 22% or 500 points. In addition, even bigger disastrous events like the 1929 Great Depression are part of the process. Each time there’s a major drop, analysts and pundits proclaim that it’s abnormal, causing many investors to panic and sell. However, even the most alarming downturns are normal.
During crashes or bear markets (those trending downward), remember...
PDF Summary Chapters 10-11: How to Invest Simply
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- Having F-You Money is essential. Life and jobs are uncertain, but you’ll have more room to make choices if you have F-You Money. If you don’t have this financial cushion now, start building it—it’s never too late.
- You should be a long-term investor, even if you’re older. Don’t follow the typical investment advice and shift too great a percentage of your money from stocks to bonds (often considered to be a safer investment) to protect your nest egg as you near retirement. At age 60, if you’re in good health, you might have another 30 years to build wealth, which is a long-term horizon. Maybe you’ll want to keep building wealth in retirement to leave money for a younger spouse, grandchildren, or a charity.
Three Wealth-Building Tools
The next step after answering the three questions is building your investment portfolio. To do it, you need only three simple tools: a stocks index fund, a bonds index fund, and a money market or bank account.
1) Stocks: Collins’s preferred option is investing in VTSAX, Vanguard’s Total Stock Market Index Fund. (He writes that he’s not being paid to promote Vanguard.) Stocks give you the best returns over a long...
PDF Summary Chapter 12: Adding Bonds to the Mix
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Risks of Bonds
Although bonds are viewed as steadier than stocks, they have several risks:
1) Default risk: The biggest risk is that the bond issuer will default and not pay you back. To help investors determine default risk, bond rating agencies (the primary ones are Standard & Poor's Global Ratings, Moody's, and Fitch Ratings) rate bonds based on creditworthiness. The scale ranges from AAA at the top to D.
The lower a bond’s rating, the higher the risk of default. Default risk is a key factor in the interest a bond pays. Poorly rated bonds are harder to sell, so the borrower or issuing agency offers higher interest to make them more attractive to buyers; investors get more interest when they assume more risk. All the bonds in VBTLX are highly rated, with none lower than Baa, which reduces the default risk.
2) Interest rate risk: Besides default, another risk of bonds is interest rate risk. This is only a factor if you decide to sell a bond before the maturity date (the end of its term). To sell it, you have to offer it to buyers in the so-called secondary market.
Whether you get more or less than you paid for the bond depends on how much interest rates have...
PDF Summary Chapter 13: Two Portfolios: Wealth Accumulation and Wealth Preservation
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- Adding a bonds index fund
- Determining the asset allocation—that is, what percentage of your money should be in stocks and what percentage should be in bonds. Also, you should review and adjust your allocation—referred to as rebalancing—once a year. It typically takes a few hours. Chapter 14 looks at asset allocation in more detail.
In semi-retirement, Collins allocates his assets this way:
- Stocks in VTSAX: 75%
- Bonds in VBTLX: 20%
- Cash in a bank account: 5%
This is a typical wealth preservation portfolio. You can adjust it to your circumstances: If you want less volatility, increase the percentage in bonds; if you want more growth and can tolerate market fluctuations, boost the percentage in stocks.
PDF Summary Chapters 14-18: Rebalancing Your Portfolio
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1) When should you shift toward bonds? This depends on your situation and risk tolerance.
- If you have a fixed retirement date, gradually shift a greater proportion of your portfolio into bonds five to 10 years before you retire.
- If your retirement date is flexible and you’re risk-tolerant, you could keep your entire nest egg in stocks until you retire. Your investment will grow faster, possibly enabling you to retire sooner. But if the market declines, you might have to delay retirement.
Whenever you shift between accumulation and preservation, you should adjust your allocations.
2) Does age matter? It’s more useful to think of life stages rather than age because circumstances may vary considerably among people the same age. However, as your age advances, it starts limiting your options—for example, due to limited physical ability or age discrimination, you won’t have the same employment options you had when you were younger. In addition, you’ll have less time to let your portfolio recover from downturns. These risk factors will influence how soon you diversify into bonds.
3) When should you rebalance? There isn’t a prescribed time, other than...
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PDF Summary Chapters 19-20, 22: Investment Plan Options
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(Shortform note: The maximum annual contribution to a 401(k) or 403(b) in 2020 is $19,500. The catchup contribution is $6,500 if you’re age 50 or over.)
Collins’s views on these plans are that:
- They’re usually good plans, but the investment companies offering them have larded them with excessive fees.
- You should maximize your contributions and take full advantage of the employer match (it’s free money).
- You should choose an index fund option with a low expense ratio (Shortform note: An expense ratio is an annual fee calculated as a percentage of your investment. For example, if the expense ratio is 1%, you’ll pay $10 a year for every $1,000 invested. Investopedia.com wrote in 2020 that 0.5% to 0.75% is a reasonable expense ratio for an actively managed fund; more than 1.5% would be high.)
- When you leave your job, you should roll your 401(k) into an IRA to retain the tax advantage.
Following are the key aspects of basic plan types.
401(k) and 403(b) Plans
- Your contributions are tax-deductible.
- You’ll owe taxes when you withdraw the money.
- You’ll pay a penalty if you withdraw money before age 59½.
- You have to make RMDs, or required...
PDF Summary Chapter 21: Health Savings Accounts
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- You’ll pay tax and a 20% penalty if you withdraw the money for non-medical purposes, unless you’re 65+ or become permanently disabled (then you’ll owe only the tax due).
- A spouse can inherit an HSA to use for medical expenses, but for other inheritors, it will be taxed as income.
- You may choose to pay your medical bills without dipping into your HSA and just let it grow.
- You can invest your HSA anywhere, but if you expect to use it in the short term, it’s best to keep it in a bank savings account.
PDF Summary Part 3: Pitfalls to Avoid | Chapters 23-28: Advisors, Stock Picking, and Cons
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2. The “Assets Under Management” (AUM) Model
The second way financial advisors make money is by charging flat management fees, usually 1-2% of your total assets. While this is presented as more “professional” than the commission model, this undercuts the growth of your nest egg and, later, your income in retirement. Your advisor is basically skimming your investment returns, which could have earned you more when you reinvested them.
For example, if you had a nest egg of $100,000, and you invested it for 20 years for a return of 11.9% a year:
- You’d end up with $947,549.
- Factoring in a 2% management fee, your return would be 9.9% a year and after 20 years, you’d have $660,623—which is $286,926 less.
- In addition, you’d have given up the interest that $286,926 could have earned, compounded over 20 years.
Under the AUM model, your advisor’s personal interests can still influence her advice. For example, if you want to withdraw money for a child’s education, she may advise against it because her annual fee will decrease.
3. Hourly Fees
Many advisors shun this model because it generates less money for them than commissions and fees. When advisors...
PDF Summary Part 4: Living on Your Investments | Chapters 29-30, 32: Withdrawing Your Money
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- Request that your investment firm transfer to your bank account a certain amount of money weekly, monthly, or however often you choose.
- Also request that capital gains, dividends, interest be transferred to your account as they are paid.
- Or, log in to the website and transfer money yourself anytime (or combine automatic and manual transfers).
Beyond the mechanics, you should determine some guiding principles for withdrawing your 4%. Here are the principles Collins and his wife adhere to:
- In creating a 75-25% stocks-bonds allocation, they look at all their funds in total, not the allocation of individual accounts.
- They reinvest dividends, capital gains, and interest in their tax-advantaged accounts.
- They have their dividends, capital gains, and interest from taxable accounts sent to their checking account.
- They allow their tax-advantaged investments to grow tax-deferred as long as possible.
- While Collins and his wife are under age 72, they’ll move as much money as they can from their regular IRAs to Roths, while staying in the 12% tax bracket.
- When Collins and his wife turn 72, RMDs will replace what they were withdrawing from the taxable...
PDF Summary Chapter 31: Drawing Social Security
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- When do you need the money? If you need it now, take it—but for each month you’re able to delay, your monthly payment will increase.
- How long do you expect to live? Are you in good health? Do you come from a long-lived family? The longer you live, the more you stand to gain by delaying payments. The break-even point for people between the ages of 62 and 66 is 84, meaning that if you live longer than 84 years, you’ll collect more if you wait until after age 66. You might want to claim benefits sooner if you don’t think you’ll live to age 84.
- If you’re married and earn more than your spouse, when you die, your spouse can swap their benefit for your larger one. If you put off taking Social Security until age 70, your spouse will get more when you die. In the interim, they can claim their lower benefits.
Although Social Security likely will survive in some form, plan as though Social Security won’t be there for you—that is, follow the simple path to wealth of living beneath your means, staying out of debt, saving F-You money, and investing in index funds. If you get Social Security, it will be a bonus.
PDF Summary Chapter 33: Conclusion
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Once you’ve achieved financial independence and can live on 4% of your investments, continue your career or try something new. If you keep working, invest all of your income (which will increase the amount 4% represents). Consider buying a house, having children, and giving to charity. The reason you save and invest is to create options and opportunities to enrich your life.