PDF Summary:Real Food/Fake Food, by Larry Olmsted

In his book Real Food/Fake Food, Larry Olmsted reveals the widespread deceptive practices in the modern food industry that lead consumers to purchase fake or inferior products. He unveils how global food manufacturers routinely mislabel, substitute cheaper ingredients, or contaminate foods ranging from olive oil and seafood to wine and cheese. This deceit not only fleeces consumers economically but also poses dangers to public health.

Olmsted explores the systemic issues contributing to food fraud, such as lax regulations, complex supply chains lacking transparency, and economic incentives. He also highlights emerging technologies and industry initiatives striving to improve food authenticity and empower shoppers to make more informed choices.

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Cheese counterfeiting

Olmsted argues that although there is a growing appetite for high-quality, artisanal cheeses in the United States, shoppers are often deceived by substitute cheeses that do not fulfill the promises made on their labels. For close to a thousand years, this cheese has been sold under its genuine Italian name and the English term "Parmesan." In the United States, numerous producers often regard "Parmesan" as a non-specific term. The market for genuine Parmigiano-Reggiano is compromised by the widespread presence of counterfeit versions.

Numerous substandard cheeses frequently pose as authentic delicacies originating from distinct areas.

Olmsted emphasizes the problem of substandard products often being sold under the guise of renowned and region-specific cheeses with established production methods. He draws a comparison between the genuine Gruyère cheese produced in Switzerland and a less expensive version crafted in southern Wisconsin, which is marketed online as embodying the unique characteristics of its locale. This product boasts a heritage of being meticulously produced in that region for a millennium. He also criticizes the commonly available “Muenster” cheese, a processed brew vastly unlike the French raw-milk original made for centuries under strict controls, and argues that American consumers are left in the dark about what they are getting.

Manufacturers take advantage of unclear labeling rules to profit from the prestigious reputation associated with renowned cheeses.

Olmsted illuminates the tactics used by both artisans and major American producers to take advantage of the esteemed reputation of globally recognized cheeses, employing misleading labels that can mislead consumers. The author argues that lax regulatory oversight and a hesitancy to clearly define terms like "Parmesan" allow producers who blend their cheese with substances such as wood pulp to claim they are not misleading consumers.

In cheese production, substituting milk with different dairy liquids is a strategy to reduce expenses, which compromises the authenticity and composition of the end product.

Olmsted exposes a deceptive tactic where producers claim their products contain milk from sheep, goats, or water buffaloes, but in reality, they use the less costly cow's milk. He highlights the difficulties consumers face when attempting to discern differences without assistance, which frequently leads to a sacrifice in taste, a drop in quality, and sometimes a decrease in nutritional value.

Plant-based substitutes and items originating from bovine sources

Olmsted argues that the high regard and worth associated with Kobe beef, known for its exceptional quality, are often exploited by dishonest vendors and restaurateurs because regulations are not stringent. In the United States, some domestically reared beef comes from wagyu cattle and provides a suitable substitute for conventional steak; however, eateries and packaging often use terms like "American Kobe," deceiving those who purchase them.

The methods and provenance of "Kobe" along with other premium beef products are frequently misrepresented.

Olmsted recounts his experience of relishing authentic Kobe beef in Japan and contrasts it with his unsuccessful quest in the U.S., where he discovered the enduring ban on beef imported from Japan. Throughout this period, any restaurant across the country that claimed to serve Kobe or other types of Japanese beef on their menu was in fact knowingly providing imitation goods. Restaurants persist in exploiting the vagueness of labels and the legal distribution of minimal amounts of genuine Kobe beef to promote inferior products as if they were authentic.

Marketing it as authentic wagyu beef despite it being mixed with ingredients of inferior quality.

Larry Olmsted highlights that while it is possible to rear cattle with unadulterated wagyu genetics within the United States, numerous producers opt to blend these with less expensive local varieties, and then market the resulting crossbreeds as wagyu. The author argues that deceptive strategies allow manufacturers to profit from the esteemed reputation and perceived higher quality associated with wagyu beef, while in reality providing a product that is markedly different and often inferior. The USDA's criteria contribute to the confusion by specifying that just over 46% of wagyu genetics is sufficient for the classification as "wagyu-influence."

The industry's lack of strict regulations and transparency allows for the taking advantage of consumer confusion.

Olmsted argues that in the United States, the lack of clear legal definitions for words like "Kobe," "wagyu," and "Angus" allows manufacturers to take advantage of this vagueness, and the problem is worsened by the lax enforcement of the broad regulations intended to prevent consumer deception. Larry Olmsted highlights the lack of protections for consumers, leading to situations where restaurants can deceptively promote dishes such as "Kobe burgers" at costs that do not align with the true worth of the beef needed for these meals.

The practice of adulterating and mislabeling wines.

Olmsted explores the intricate and long-standing scheme where wine producers in the United States seek to benefit by leveraging the esteemed reputation of European wines, misappropriating their legally protected geographic designations. This includes not only using these names on wines from other regions, which would be illegal in most of the world, but also using grapes and production methods that have no relationship to the wines whose names they have stolen. Financial motivations constitute the primary impetus for various forms of food fraud.

The widespread habit of mislabeling inferior, unrelated products with prestigious names linked to specific locations, like "Champagne,"

Olmsted emphasizes the deceptive tactic of labeling wines with region-specific names such as "Champagne," "Chianti," "Burgundy," and "port," even when they are produced in places like California, New York, and elsewhere in the U.S. He illustrates how manufacturers affix terms with significant historical and geographical connotations, such as "crafted in the style of Champagne," to products that fail to conform to the established standards, thus increasing confusion among buyers.

Producers are mixing less expensive components into wines and then selling them under the guise of high-quality varietals.

In the United States, Olmsted highlights that wine labels may display the names of specific grape varieties even if the wine isn't made exclusively from the mentioned grape. Winemakers can incorporate less expensive or inferior grapes or wines into their final product and still label it as a particular type such as Cabernet Sauvignon or Pinot Noir, provided that the product consists of no less than 75% of the named grape variety. Additionally, many winemakers choose to label their wines with the name of a well-known single grape variety instead of using a straightforward term like "meritage," which indicates to consumers that the wine is a blend of different grape types.

The sector of viticulture often partakes in misleading activities due to permissive labeling standards and a lack of stringent oversight.

Olmsted condemns the Alcohol and Tobacco Tax and Trade Bureau for its evident disregard in enforcing rules that require accurate disclosure of the quality and character of alcoholic products on their packaging. He also criticizes the TTB for failing to halt misleading advertising and branding tactics designed to mislead consumers. He argues that the current system unjustly enables winemakers to benefit from the reputation of well-known wine-producing regions, harming both genuine producers and consumers.

Practical Tips

• You can become a savvy consumer by researching and using seafood traceability apps that provide information about the origin and species of seafood. These apps often work by scanning a QR code or entering the name of the fish, allowing you to verify the authenticity of the product before purchase. For example, if you're buying salmon, you can use the app to check if it's wild-caught or farmed, and from which region it originates.
• Start a habit of conducting taste tests with friends to identify authentic products. Gather a variety of olive oils, cheeses, or wines, and sample them in a blind taste test to educate your palate. This can help you discern quality and detect when a product doesn't meet the standards of its label. For instance, organize a cheese-tasting event where you compare different brands of a specific cheese, like Parmesan, to understand the nuances of authentic versus counterfeit products.
• Create a personal reference guide by documenting your experiences with different food products. Whenever you purchase seafood, olive oil, cheese, or wine, take notes on the taste, texture, and appearance, and record any certifications or traceability information provided. Over time, you'll build a personal database that can serve as a reference for identifying high-quality products. For example, after trying a new brand of extra virgin olive oil, jot down its flavor profile and how it compares to others you've tried, noting any distinctive characteristics.

Maintaining the quality of food products is contingent upon safeguarding their authenticity.

Olmsted argues that it is vital to protect genuine, high-quality food by associating a product's uniqueness and authenticity with its unique place of origin, which stops producers from incorrectly using these designations on dissimilar products. He criticizes the United States for its reluctance to link the quality of food to its place of origin, while at the same time it zealously protects products labeled from within its borders, like wines from the Napa region and potatoes grown in Idaho. This inconsistent strategy has led to numerous trade disputes and, as a result, has made it easier for fake food products to be distributed widely.

The concept of Geographical Indication acts as a protective measure for the genuineness and legacy of various food products.

Olmsted praises the European Union for recognizing the importance of geographic origin in producing authentic, high-quality food items and for being at the forefront of developing mechanisms that protect frameworks like the Designation of Origin and Geographic Indication. Only food products that are manufactured within a specified area and meet strict standards for quality and production are allowed to bear their legally recognized geographical indications. Scotch whisky embodies the quintessence of Real Food due to its deep-rooted connection with the cultural and historical legacy that has shaped it throughout history.

Certain foods are required to come from the regions they are traditionally linked to and produced through time-honored methods, a fact that is protected by marks that denote their geographic provenance.

Olmsted argues that the European Union's system of protected geographical indications and designations effectively safeguards the unique heritage and authenticity of regional food specialties. He explains that the Protected Designation of Origin (PDO) mark ensures not only that the ingredients originate from a particular area but also that traditional regional methods are adhered to throughout the production process. This method ensures the distinctiveness and excellence of the final product, preserves traditional heritage, and prevents manufacturers outside the region from replicating it.

Consumers receive help in identifying and supporting authentic local foods by employing geographic labels.

Olmsted underscores the significance of Geographic Indications for consumers in pursuit of genuine food items, highlighting initiatives like the Protected Origin Status. Individuals have the power to make informed purchases of authentic food products, supporting age-old methods of production and the communities that rely on them by tracing their food back to its origins. He also notes that many governments not only approve but also vigorously promote items with certified origins to boost regional economies and encourage tourism linked to farming heritage.

The importance of clear, honest labeling

In his work, Olmsted emphasizes how the labeling of food influences the decisions consumers make when purchasing products. He often highlights how manufacturers may use vague or misleading labels to misrepresent the true nature of their food products. He argues that people seeking genuine food frequently fall victim to deceptive terms such as "natural," "pure," and "100%," which lack stringent regulation and remain vague, and that despite the requirement to list ingredients, this mandate can be circumvented by classifying rather than specifying the exact ingredients.

Ambiguous or misleading labels allow producers to misrepresent the contents and origins of their products

Olmsted frequently emphasizes that the absence of precise definitions and established labeling criteria for numerous food items fosters a setting conducive to deceit and counterfeit practices. Manufacturers often take advantage of the public's understanding of terms such as "natural," "pure," and "100%"—words that often have no specific legal meaning—to deceive customers regarding the true quality of their products. The tendency to embellish food packaging with serene scenes, such as depictions of quaint Tuscan farmhouses on olive oil bottles that in reality contain mixtures of chemically altered oils from different countries, or the use of American flags on wagyu beef that isn't entirely wagyu, exacerbates the deceptive character of these items.

Consumers need clear and reliable labeling of products to make informed choices.

Olmsted argues that customers have a right to transparent and truthful labeling which accurately reflects the product's ingredients, origin, and production method. Larry Olmsted argues that clear and truthful labeling fosters a market environment where Real Foods can thrive and enables consumers to make informed choices regarding the quality, authenticity, and ethical production, including the origins of ingredients, the use of genetically modified organisms, and the use of antibiotics in animal rearing.

Ensuring transparency is crucial throughout the entire process, from the initial production of food to its distribution to consumers.

Olmsted argues that the intricate and opaque nature of global food supply chains, combined with inadequate oversight from regulators, provides an environment conducive to unscrupulous individuals easily hiding deceptive food practices and avoiding detection. He underscores the necessity for clearer disclosure regarding the origins and production methods of ingredients, as well as a heightened responsibility to make the product manufacturing processes known to consumers.

The manufacturing processes and beginnings of many food products are obscured by complex supply chain networks.

The complex global system of food distribution, involving numerous nations, distributors, processors, and middlemen, obscures the true origins and production techniques of food, making it easier for producers to substitute ingredients or partake in deceptive identification practices. Larry Olmsted highlights the difficulty in tracing the intricate path of frozen seafood within the United States, detailing how it is harvested, sent to China for antibiotic treatment and processing, before being imported once again to be prepared for cooking.

Increased traceability and public disclosure of production practices could deter fraudulent behavior

Olmsted argues that greater transparency in the path raw ingredients take through the food supply chains, coupled with a thorough understanding of food production processes, would make it more challenging for companies to deceive consumers and easier for people to choose genuine food. He suggests that disseminating this knowledge broadly and obtaining validation from independent organizations would empower consumers to make more educated choices about their food purchases, ensuring accountability among manufacturers.

Other Perspectives

• While geographical indications can protect the authenticity of products, they may also create barriers to entry for new producers who could potentially offer similar quality products but are located outside the designated regions.
• The emphasis on place of origin does not always guarantee quality; other factors such as production techniques and ingredient quality also play significant roles.
• The focus on traditional methods and origins might inadvertently discourage innovation in food production that could lead to improvements in quality, sustainability, or safety.
• Strict geographical indications can sometimes be used as a form of protectionism that benefits a small number of producers at the expense of others, including those in developing countries.
• The reliance on geographical indications and protected designations may lead to higher prices for consumers, as these labels can be used to justify premium pricing.
• The argument for clear and honest labeling assumes that consumers will always use this information to make informed choices, but in reality, many other factors influence purchasing decisions, including price, brand loyalty, and marketing.
• The push for transparency throughout the food production and distribution process could increase costs for producers, which may be passed on to consumers.
• In some cases, the complexity of the global food supply chain is a result of necessary efficiencies and economies of scale that benefit consumers through lower prices and a wider availability of products.
• Increased traceability and public disclosure could lead to information overload for consumers, who may not have the time or expertise to interpret the data meaningfully.
• There is a risk that too much emphasis on the origins and traditional methods could overshadow other important aspects of food quality, such as nutritional content, food safety, and environmental impact.

Efforts are being made by oversight bodies and the food industry to tackle deceptive practices within the food sector.

Olmsted paints a bleak picture of the current state of fraudulent food products, yet he provides his readers with advice that goes beyond the simple caution of 'buyer beware'. He advocates for a holistic improvement strategy that encompasses not only more rigorous examination and enforcement of regulations by government agencies concerning product labeling but also proactive steps taken by the industry and the use of advanced technology to prevent fraud.

Enhancing the rigor and implementation of governmental oversight.

Olmsted underscores the need for more stringent regulatory measures to tackle the issue of deceptive food labeling, advocating for clearer delineation of terms such as "natural" and "organic," along with the adoption of more rigorous standards for labeling that require full disclosure about the origins and composition of food products. He argues that the inadequate and often outdated legal definitions for many products are easily exploited by producers, compromising the integrity of food labels and undermining consumer safety.

Calls are growing louder for the FDA to implement stricter oversight and control measures over the distribution of foods that are contaminated or mislabeled.

Olmsted persistently criticizes the FDA for its inaction on food fraud, arguing that the agency's weak enforcement of rules related to food tampering has permitted these misdeeds to happen without repercussions. He advocates for enhancing the Food and Drug Administration's capacity to verify and regulate, ensuring vigilant identification of fraudulent goods in commerce, and imposing legal repercussions on those involved in deceptive or dangerous practices, whether by civil lawsuits or criminal charges.

It is crucial to develop clearer and more accurate standards, especially when it comes to the information presented on food packaging labels.

Olmsted argues that it is essential to define commonly used but broadly vague labeling terms precisely to protect the interests of consumers. He criticizes the Food and Drug Administration for its failure to define "natural" precisely, a situation that manufacturers often exploit to mislead consumers about the true character of their products. Larry Olmsted highlights that the FDA's ability to maintain quality standards is compromised due to the absence of an officially established classification for olive oil. He argues that the lack of stringent regulations and proper monitoring allows producers to mislead consumers and exploit loopholes in the system with impunity.

Industry-led initiatives to ensure authenticity

Producers have a natural inclination to maintain the integrity and good standing of their offerings, with government oversight playing a crucial role in resolving any issues. He contends that industry organizations are crucial in raising consumer awareness and deterring deception, demonstrated by the Meritage Alliance's active efforts to advocate for Bordeaux-style wines and the rigorous standards applied during the production of authentic Parmesan cheese.

Producers can voluntarily participate in certification programs and display seals to verify the authenticity of their regional specialties.

Olmsted underscores the significance of autonomous organizations that validate the authenticity and excellence of products, such as the Marine Stewardship Council (MSC) for sustainably caught wild seafood and the California Olive Oil Council (COOC), which endorses extra-virgin oils that exceed specific quality standards. He underscores the importance of endorsements that undergo rigorous validation and are overseen by reputable organizations, aiding consumers in identifying genuine goods and encouraging producers to maintain superior standards of quality.

Manufacturers collaborate to ensure the genuineness of their products and the methods used in their creation.

Olmsted acknowledges the crucial role that industry groups play in combating misleading food labeling through the creation of uniform production standards, advocating for protective laws, and actively pursuing perpetrators of such fraud. He references the organization responsible for Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese as a model of success, guaranteeing not only the oversight and worldwide advocacy of the authentic cheese but also safeguarding its manufacturers by pursuing legal measures against the creation of counterfeit "Parmesans."

Innovative techniques are emerging to pinpoint occurrences of deceptive food practices.

Olmsted holds a positive outlook on the potential of emerging technologies to bolster the safeguarding of consumers by making it easier to trace food products and allowing authorities to more efficiently identify mislabeled or fraudulent items.

Sophisticated methods are employed to confirm the source and constituents of food items.

A project was initiated at Queen's University to create a DNA fingerprinting database aimed at improving the accuracy of differentiating between genuine cheeses and their imitation versions. Researchers employ rapid identification techniques to promptly identify cases where one type of seafood is substituted for another and mislabeling occurs in the industry. Italian authorities have employed DNA analysis to reveal instances in which different varieties of tomatoes were incorrectly marketed under the guise of San Marzano in canned products.

Enhanced visibility and accountability in the distribution networks are achieved through blockchain and other digital innovations.

Olmsted points out that blockchain and other digital technologies could play a significant role in monitoring and authenticating the journey of edible goods from their origin to the point of sale. The writer explains that these systems create a strong, traceable record for every step in the distribution process, making it more difficult for suppliers to falsify origin information or interchange parts, while at the same time making it easier for purchasers and regulatory agencies to uncover any dishonesty.

Other Perspectives

• Oversight bodies and industry collaborations may not always align due to conflicting interests, potentially limiting the effectiveness of joint efforts to combat fraud.
• Stricter regulations on food labeling could increase production costs, which might be passed on to consumers, making food products more expensive.
• The FDA's capacity to implement more stringent oversight is limited by resources, and increasing its regulatory reach could require significant government investment or reallocation of funds.
• Defining terms like "natural" and "organic" can be challenging due to varying interpretations, and stricter definitions might not reflect the diversity of agricultural practices or consumer expectations.
• Industry-led initiatives, while beneficial, may not be entirely impartial, as they can be designed to favor the interests of larger producers over smaller ones or to create barriers to market entry.
• Certification programs may not be accessible to all producers, especially smaller or local ones, due to the costs and complexities of obtaining certification.
• Collaboration among manufacturers to ensure product genuineness may not be feasible in highly competitive markets where proprietary methods and trade secrets are closely guarded.
• The effectiveness of emerging technologies like DNA fingerprinting and blockchain is contingent on widespread adoption and standardization, which may be slow due to technical, economic, or logistical challenges.
• There is a risk that increased visibility and accountability through digital innovations could infringe on privacy or lead to the misuse of data if not properly regulated.