PDF Summary:Judgment of Paris, by George M. Taber

The wine world encountered a seismic shift after the renowned 1976 "Judgment of Paris" tasting, where Californian wines from unheralded vineyards outperformed prestigious French wines. In Judgment of Paris, George M. Taber chronicles the fascinating history behind this event, exploring the factors that shaped California's rise in the winemaking world and how both California and French viticulture practices evolved.

Taber delves into the challenges faced by Californian vintners in producing high-quality wines, the pioneering spirits who transformed the industry, and how the Paris tasting impacted global wine trends. He traces the rise of New World wines and their battle for territory against iconic French labels. As tastes shifted and new markets emerged, vintners on both sides adapted their styles and promoted their unique terroirs in pursuit of worldwide acclaim.

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The organizers of the event were certain that the highly regarded judges, known for their refined palates and sharp evaluations, would lend credibility to the occasion and affirm the superior quality of Californian vintages. The organizers were confident that the judges, well-versed in French wine traditions, would impartially assess the wines, recognizing the unique characteristics inherent to those from California and France.

The selection and evaluation of the wines for the Paris event were carried out meticulously.

Spurrier selected twelve Californian wines for the contest, evenly divided between those made from the Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay varietals, and he also chose eight French wines, ensuring a fair mix of both categories, all in accordance with his established criteria for selection.

Taber describes the careful selection process Spurrier used for the wines he evaluated. He chose the same quantity of Chardonnays and half a dozen Cabernet Sauvignons from Californian vineyards, concentrating on emerging establishments he believed had the potential to match the quality of their French counterparts. He selected four Bordeaux reds and an equal number of Burgundian whites, making certain that their year of production and grape type matched those of the Californian selections.

For the contest, Spurrier handpicked an array of exceptional red wines, featuring not only the illustrious Château Haut-Brion and Château Mouton Rothschild but also incorporating renowned Second Growth estates like Château Montrose and other distinguished vineyards. He chose esteemed white wine varietals from the Burgundy area, such as those from locales like Meursault and Puligny-Montrachet, along with a prestigious Grand Cru from Bâtard-Montrachet. He believed that these renowned wines would provide a reliable benchmark against which to assess the caliber of California's wines. Spurrier arranged the tasting to showcase the excellence of Californian wines while also emphasizing the esteemed quality of French vintages.

The origins of the wines eluded the French judges, who found themselves at a loss to pinpoint whether they were tasting domestic or Californian varieties.

The French experts on the panel were taken by surprise as they struggled to pinpoint the origins of the wines during the tasting. Taber notes that American wines were often incorrectly identified as French due to their similar characteristics, which are usually associated with French vintages.

The judges approached the tasting with a predisposition, expecting the wines from California to be missing the complexity and sophistication often attributed to their French counterparts, an attitude that was especially evident when they assessed the Chardonnays. The incident highlighting mistaken identities underscored the successful replication of the complexity and taste characteristics of French wines by those from California.

To ensure a fair and unbiased comparison, the bottles were presented without any identifying marks in a blind tasting setup.

Spurrier, alongside Gallagher, agreed upon a blind tasting arrangement to ensure impartiality during the assessment of the wines. In his account, Taber describes the thorough procedure in which each wine was decanted into identical bottles and given unmarked labels to ensure they remained anonymous. The panel maintained their objectivity by keeping certain details hidden that might sway their judgment, such as the prestigious reputation of certain French wines and the fact that others were produced in California.

The event coordinators stressed that the judges should rely solely on their sense of smell and taste when assessing the characteristics and quality of the wines. The blind tasting approach, often used by professionals but seldom in casual tastings, played a pivotal role in the competition's results, underscoring the intrinsic excellence of wines from California and uncovering the preconceptions linked to the wines' geographical provenance.

The results from the Paris Tasting, along with the reactions it provoked.

In a surprising turn of events, Chateau Montelena's 1973 Chardonnay and the Cabernet Sauvignon produced by Stag's Leap Wine Cellars outperformed France's leading wines.

In a surprising outcome at the Paris Tasting, California wines emerged victorious in both the Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon categories. Taber narrates the profound silence that filled the room when Spurrier disclosed that the top-ranking white wine was the 1973 Chateau Montelena Chardonnay, and then he unveiled that the highest accolade for a red wine went to the Cabernet Sauvignon from Stag's Leap Wine Cellars, vintage 1973.

The unexpected outcomes surprised the French wine experts, leading them to reflect on the implications. In a blind tasting that ensured impartiality by concealing the wines' origins, California selections outperformed their French counterparts. The result strongly validated the quality of wines from California, challenging the longstanding belief in France of their wines' unrivaled superiority.

The judges expressed both astonishment and skepticism upon evaluating the wine from that particular year.

The members of the panel displayed clear astonishment and disbelief as they reviewed their scoring records. Taber recounts how, despite judges like Aubert de Villaine acknowledging the excellence of Californian wines, they still showed a preference for French wines overall. Some individuals, including Pierre Tari, expressed skepticism, suggesting that the Californian wines' lack of maturity might have tipped the scales to their advantage.

Despite their initial skepticism, the undeniable truth emerged that each judge, evaluating without sight of the brands, awarded higher scores to a Californian-produced Chardonnay. The initial reactions were mixed; some commended the results, while others attempted to downplay their significance. The incident led to significant disruption among several individuals, especially Odette Kahn, and instigated a reassessment of the reliability and the expertise of those conducting blind tastings.

The occasion garnered significant interest, prompting reactions from observers in both the United States and France.

George M. Taber's May 31, 1976, Time magazine article was instrumental in increasing American knowledge regarding the outcomes of the Paris Tasting. The story, titled "Judgment of Paris," depicted the vinous competition as an event that was once thought to be unimaginable. The respected New York Times wine critic, Prial, allocated two of his columns to the event, acknowledging the victories of wines from California while also highlighting the inherent difficulties in blind tasting competitions where the bottles' identities are concealed. News outlets across the United States covered the event, emphasizing the triumph of California's wines along with their newfound recognition internationally.

The French media initially gave the event minimal coverage, either downplaying or completely ignoring the results. When the story broke, skepticism arose regarding the legitimacy of the blind tasting method used, which evaluated the wines without any awareness of their provenance. In her article for the French wine publication, Kahn minimized the American media's depiction, calling it prejudiced, and argued that the event simply demonstrated the ability of some Californian vintners to create wines of notable merit, but this did not challenge the dominance of French wine producers. The reaction from the United States was one of elation and national pride, whereas the French response was marked by doubt and a tendency to minimize the importance of the competition's outcome.

Other Perspectives

• The event's aim to promote Spurrier and Gallagher's business interests may have influenced the selection of wines and the organization of the tasting, potentially introducing bias.
• The expectation that French wines would outshine Californian ones could be seen as a reflection of the prevailing wine industry opinions at the time, rather than a specific underestimation by the organizers.
• The selection of judges and wines, while aiming for fairness and credibility, could still be subject to personal biases and preferences, which are inherent in any tasting event.
• The blind tasting setup, while designed to ensure impartiality, does not account for the variability in individual palates and the subjective nature of taste.
• The victory of California wines could be attributed to a variety of factors, including the possibility of the French judges being unfamiliar with the characteristics of the Californian wines, leading to unexpected results.
• The reactions of the judges and the media may reflect broader cultural attitudes and biases towards wine production regions, rather than objective assessments of quality.
• The significant interest and reactions from observers, particularly in the United States, may have been influenced by nationalistic pride and the desire for recognition in a field traditionally dominated by France.

Following the Paris Tasting, the industry associated with viticulture experienced substantial expansion and transformation.

The worldwide change in wine drinking habits after the Paris Tasting event.

Interest in wine has been on the rise across countries like the United States, Japan, and Canada.

The 1976 Paris wine tasting event sparked an international increase in the appreciation for wine, particularly in countries like the United States, Japan, and Canada, driven by growing affluence, a heightened interest in fine dining, and the aspiration for a more refined lifestyle. Taber documents the growing preference among consumers, especially within the United States, for dry table wines over their sweeter counterparts.

The expansion of the global wine market created new opportunities for traditional European vintners and emerging wine-producing areas worldwide. Wine enthusiasts started to appreciate the diverse flavors and qualities that different wine regions provide, from the sophisticated complexity found in French wines to the strong and distinctly fruity flavors typical of Australian Shiraz wines.

The global reputation of French wines soared in the 1980s, bolstered by a growing number of aficionados and the positive assessments of wine connoisseur Robert Parker.

France saw a surprising upswing in the international market's desire for its wines, even though the outcome of the Paris Tasting initially caught the country off guard. During the 1980s, Taber notes a marked increase in the demand for French wines, a trend that was strongly affected by the introduction of Robert Parker's The Wine Advocate. Parker's proclamation that the 1982 Bordeaux vintage was unmatched in the century sparked a fervent interest in wines from France.

The scoring system, which allotted a maximum of 100 points to various wines, simplified the decision-making process for novices in the realm of viticulture, resulting in heightened attention on top-scoring French wines, particularly those hailing from Bordeaux and Burgundy. In the 1980s, a strong US dollar made it more economical for American consumers to purchase French wines. French vintners modified their winemaking methods to cater to the preferences of American consumers, who typically had a penchant for full-bodied wines, thus enhancing the global reputation of wines from France.

Major wine-producing nations such as France, Italy, and Spain have seen a downturn in the amount of wine they consume.

In the United States and other emerging markets, the appetite for wine began to rise, whereas traditional wine-producing countries like France, Italy, and Spain experienced a steady decline in their local wine consumption. Taber attributes this trend to a range of societal, demographic, and cultural shifts, including changes in lifestyle, a growing preference for other beverages such as beer and cocktails, and an intergenerational transition that departs from traditional wine-drinking habits.

France's wine consumption peaked in 1926 with an average of 35.9 gallons per person, but as the 21st century commenced, it had declined to less than 13 gallons for each individual. Changes in the drinking habits of several European countries prompted traditional winemakers to focus more on international markets.

The rise of wines from the New World challenged France's long-established dominance in the wine industry.

Vineyards have proliferated across the United States, Australia, and other nations recognized for producing New World wines.

Following the Paris Tasting, New World wine-producing countries responded to the growing global demand for wine with a dramatic expansion of their vineyards. Taber describes the rapid expansion of vineyard regions by vintners from Australia, the United States, and Chile, who capitalized on favorable climatic conditions, available financial resources, and a growing worldwide appetite for their wines.

The advent of advanced techniques like drip irrigation expanded the possibilities of growing grapes in regions previously deemed unsuitable for such agriculture. The rise of New World wine producers was fueled by the growing interest from emerging markets in globally recognized grape types such as Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, and Merlot.

Internationally, Australian wines have gained prominence, with established brands and varietals earning worldwide recognition.

Australia's ascent in the global wine industry signified a considerable transformation, transitioning from a country that mainly produced wines of often lower quality for domestic use to one that exports nearly half of its wine output worldwide. Taber highlights Australia's focus on cultivating esteemed brands, maintaining consistent quality, and catering to international tastes, which has made its wines attractive and readily embraced by those who are just beginning to appreciate wine.

Australian wines have gained significant prominence, symbolized by brands like Yellow Tail. The wine from Yellow Tail gained international acclaim for its user-friendly taste profile and vibrant packaging. This approach, along with vigorous marketing and tactical pricing, allowed Australian wines to significantly penetrate important markets like the United Kingdom and the United States, challenging the dominance of French vintages.

Sauvignon Blanc wines from New Zealand have attracted considerable attention from consumers.

Taber emphasizes the remarkable surge in global recognition of New Zealand's Sauvignon Blanc wines, which has transformed the international perception of a variety of grape that was previously often ignored. New Zealand's Sauvignon Blanc wines, recognized for their vibrant acidity, unique scents akin to fresh-cut grass and tropical fruits, possess a distinctive taste that distinguishes them.

Kevin Judd was instrumental in establishing Cloudy Bay, a brand that epitomizes the success of New Zealand's Sauvignon Blanc. They concentrated on the unique attributes of the regional terroir in crafting their wines, minimizing the influence of oak and producing a vintage that garnered global praise from connoisseurs. The international wine market now prominently features wines from New Zealand, a rise in status that can be attributed to the high regard for Cloudy Bay and the unwavering excellence of its Sauvignon Blanc producers.

The metamorphosis of French wines as a consequence of the Paris Tasting.

The focus transitioned to the production of wines distinguished by their superior quality.

As domestic interest in French wines diminished, vintners turned their focus towards satisfying the growing international demand for wines of outstanding quality, particularly those distinguished by the AOC label. Taber notes a significant shift in the domestic market, with wines that comply with the stringent AOC guidelines—mandating specific varietals, agricultural practices, and manufacturing procedures—increasing their market share from 14% in 1950 to nearly 50% by the early 21st century.

The emphasis on enhancing the quality of their wine was a reaction to the growing competition from winemakers in countries outside the traditional European wine-producing regions. French vintners dedicated themselves to maintaining rigorous criteria and enhancing the reputation of AOC wines, striving to continue as purveyors of unparalleled excellence in their offerings.

In France, a growing trend has emerged toward sustainable grape farming and a move towards crafting organic wines.

Taber documents the rise of biodynamic viticulture in France's wine sector, highlighting a heightened awareness of the environmental impact of traditional farming and a drive to produce wines that harmonize more closely with nature. Nicolas Joly in the Loire region and Olivier Zind-Humbrecht in Alsace were pioneers in embracing organic farming methods, which allowed them to minimize their use of artificial pesticides, fertilizers, and weed killers.

The trend towards environmentally sustainable grape cultivation, driven by ecological concerns and an increasing demand for organic products, accelerated not only in France but also across other globally recognized wine-producing areas. Biodynamic methods, initially met with skepticism by traditional winemakers, have gained acknowledgment for their essential contribution to preserving the long-term health of vineyards and in producing wines that deeply reflect the essence of the terrain.

French vintners were becoming increasingly aware of the global tendencies shaping their trade.

The event in Paris was a defining moment that led French wine producers to acknowledge the advancements and innovative methods embraced by their global peers. Taber notes that French winemakers, who were initially doubtful, gradually began to recognize the outstanding potential and excellence of the wines being produced in the burgeoning wine regions of California.

This heightened receptivity led to a cooperative atmosphere, particularly in the adoption of French oak for the process and in the quest for innovative methods in the art of viniculture. French vintners' openness to adopting innovative ideas and reevaluating their traditional methods played a pivotal role in refining their art and adjusting to the changing tastes of wine enthusiasts around the globe.

Other Perspectives

• While the Paris Tasting of 1976 did increase interest in wine globally, it is important to recognize that wine consumption and appreciation have a multitude of influences, including cultural shifts, economic changes, and marketing efforts that may not be directly related to this event.
• The rise in wine interest in countries like the United States, Japan, and Canada could also be attributed to demographic changes and globalization, not solely to growing affluence or aspirations for a refined lifestyle.
• The preference for dry table wines over sweeter counterparts in the U.S. may not solely reflect a change in taste but could also be influenced by trends and marketing that promote dry wines as more sophisticated.
• The expansion of the global wine market has also led to challenges for traditional vintners, including increased competition and the need to adapt to rapidly changing global tastes and market dynamics.
• The appreciation of diverse flavors from different wine regions may sometimes lead to homogenization of wine profiles to cater to international tastes, potentially threatening the uniqueness of regional wines.
• The soaring global reputation of French wines in the 1980s, while influenced by Robert Parker's reviews, could also be seen as part of a broader trend of globalization and the internationalization of taste preferences.
• Robert Parker's scoring system, while influential, has also been criticized for promoting a certain style of wine and potentially oversimplifying the complexity of wine appreciation.
• The downturn in wine consumption in traditional wine-producing nations could also be seen as a natural rebalancing or a shift towards quality over quantity, rather than a negative trend.
• The challenge to France's wine industry dominance by New World wines is part of a natural economic cycle of competition and innovation, which can ultimately benefit consumers with more choices.
• The proliferation of vineyards in New World countries may raise concerns about environmental impact, sustainability, and the potential for overproduction.
• The international prominence of Australian wines and other New World wines may fluctuate with changing consumer trends, economic conditions, and the impact of climate change on wine production.
• The attraction to New Zealand's Sauvignon Blanc could be subject to changes in consumer tastes, which are notoriously fickle and influenced by many factors beyond the intrinsic qualities of the wine.
• The focus on superior quality production in France is commendable, but it also raises questions about the accessibility and affordability of these wines for average consumers.
• The move towards sustainable grape farming and organic wines in France is part of a global trend, and while positive, it also faces challenges such as certification processes, scalability, and market acceptance.
• French vintners' awareness of global trends is a double-edged sword, as it may lead to beneficial exchanges of knowledge and techniques but could also result in the loss of traditional practices that contribute to the uniqueness of French wines.

The preeminence of French wines faced considerable challenges after the renowned Paris Tasting event.

The impact of the globalization era on the production and circulation of French wine.

French winemakers are turning to new markets as the demand for their products declines within the country.

As domestic interest in their wines diminished, French vintners increasingly turned their attention to international markets. They faced new challenges as they competed with experienced European winemakers and the increasing influence of wines from the New World.

Taber emphasizes that Australia overtook France as the main supplier of wine imports to Britain, effectively ending France's long-established supremacy in that sector. Australia was rapidly gaining a larger portion of the U.S. market by offering high-quality wines at prices that appealed to a broad range of buyers.

French vintners are facing considerable challenges from producers in countries like Australia and other regions of the New World, especially in the vital price range of $10 to $20 per bottle.

France's dominance in the high-end wine market is attributed to its long-standing tradition and expertise in wine-making, making its esteemed wines continuously in demand. The author emphasizes that the crucial contest in the global wine market took place in the mid-range price category, particularly between $10 and $20, where producers from nations like Australia had established a considerable foothold.

Australian wines, recognized for their distinctive fruity tastes, are becoming increasingly favored by beginner wine enthusiasts in major global markets because of their approachable tannin levels and consistent quality. The vineyard enhanced its appeal and accessibility to those new to wine through innovative marketing strategies and the implementation of competitive prices.

The preferences for French wine have undergone considerable change following the celebrated Paris Tasting.

In the face of global competition, French wines underwent a subtle but significant evolution. Taber notes that the dedication of French wine producers to maintaining the distinct qualities bestowed by their local terroirs led them to adopt global methods, which yielded wines with stronger, more distinct, and fruit-driven flavors.

In Bordeaux, winemakers began to concentrate on enhancing the taste profile of their wines by carefully choosing grapes when they were most ripe and employing techniques like deliberate oxygenation to soften the tannins, thus improving the wines' palatability. The change in style acknowledged a worldwide transition in the tastes of wine consumers, favoring wines that were ready for immediate enjoyment without the need for prolonged aging.

France's wine sector faced difficulties related to its promotional tactics and internal organization.

Customers from around the world frequently find it challenging to recognize and remember the labeling details on wines from France.

The expansion of the global wine market presented significant challenges for French wine producers, whose complex and often confusing labeling practices hindered their ability to market their products effectively. Taber discusses the difficulties that international consumers encounter when trying to comprehend French wine labels, as they must interpret the distinct appellations and conventional classifications linked to the vineyards of France.

The intricate classification of vineyards, regions, labels, and tiers in France's wine sector posed considerable challenges for international consumers, who found it difficult to navigate and confidently select French vintages. In contrast, wines from countries such as Australia and the US often had labels that clearly indicated the grape varieties and utilized marketing strategies that appealed more broadly to consumers worldwide.

France had few vintages of exceptional quality that were recognized on a global scale.

France's expertise in producing wines that highlighted the significance of the local environment did not guarantee a strong presence of well-known labels in the crucial mid-tier and entry-level market segments. Taber notes that, with few exceptions like Mouton Cadet, French vineyards encountered difficulties in establishing unique and consistent brands that could compete with the well-established brands of New World producers.

The fragmented structure of the wine sector in France, marked by a multitude of small producers, made it difficult to unify promotional activities. Numerous vineyards lacked the resources to create a global footprint, a chance that was grasped by producers from non-traditional wine-making nations, who benefited from their large-scale production and sophisticated marketing strategies.

The vineyards of France, modest in size, struggled to gain global recognition due to their constrained abilities in marketing and distribution.

The traditional structure of the French wine industry presented significant challenges to lesser-known vineyards striving to achieve global acclaim. Taber emphasizes that, within France, the focus of most vineyards was on wine production, whereas the marketing and sales aspects were often managed by négociants, who tended to favor large, well-known estates and brands.

French vineyards of modest size faced challenges in forging direct links with importers and retailers, hindering their ability to enter the global market on their own because they relied on wine merchants. In contrast, winemakers from areas not typically associated with European viticulture often oversaw their own distribution networks, enabling them to exert greater control over the international market's pricing, promotion, and accessibility.

French wines maintain their significant status within the global wine industry today.

French winemakers consistently maintain a high standard of quality, despite increasing competition from around the world.

The international wine industry has long respected France for its heritage of producing wines of unparalleled quality. Taber depicts the French winemakers as unwavering in their dedication to the distinctiveness of their terroirs and their rich legacy, always producing vintages that receive broad recognition for their exceptional quality.

Vintners from all corners of the earth persist in viewing the Champagne region of France as a benchmark for quality, striving to emulate their viticultural methods. The framework of controlled origin appellations, though perceived as inflexible, maintains standards of quality that appeal to consumers worldwide.

France's unique terroir that supports the production of its outstanding wines

The idea that the unique character of a wine is significantly shaped by its specific terroir, climatic circumstances, and the heritage of its vinification remains a key aspect of French viticultural methods, as observed by Taber. The wine regions of France, celebrated for their distinctive and unparalleled terroirs, invariably yield wines that mirror and embody their specific locales of origin.

France is celebrated for its diverse and exceptional terroirs, such as the gravelly soils of Bordeaux, the limestone hills of Burgundy, the chalky slopes of Champagne, and the Loire Valley's terrain shaped by ancient volcanic activity, all of which are instrumental in producing a variety of wines that reflect the distinct characteristics of their regions of origin. This diversity and enduring connection to terroir continue to captivate wine enthusiasts worldwide.

The long-standing traditions of grape cultivation in areas like Bordeaux and Burgundy

France benefits from a well-established infrastructure that supports the cultivation and production of wine, particularly in celebrated regions like Bordeaux and Burgundy. As Taber narrates, this structure includes not only long-established vineyards and historic wine production operations but also a group of traders, institutions for grape-growing education, research bodies, and a complex network for distributing the wine.

The industry thrives in an environment that fosters creativity, facilitates the sharing of knowledge, and maintains the traditions of winegrowing. French winemaking expertise resonates across the globe, inspiring winemakers from different nations and influencing the global perception that wine is an essential element of sophisticated lifestyle.

Other Perspectives

• While French winemakers have indeed turned to international markets, it's also true that there is a resurgence of interest in local and artisanal products within France that could counterbalance the decline in domestic demand.
• The challenge from producers in countries like Australia is significant, but it's worth noting that French wines still hold a prestigious position in the global market, particularly in the luxury segment.
• Australian wines are popular for their fruity tastes and marketing, but this does not necessarily equate to a superior product; rather, it reflects a difference in consumer preferences and successful branding.
• The evolution of French wines post-Paris Tasting may be seen as a positive adaptation to consumer tastes rather than a negative reaction to competition.
• French labeling practices, while complex, reflect a deep heritage and could be seen as an aspect of authenticity and tradition that adds value for certain consumers.
• France may have fewer globally recognized vintages in the mid-tier market, but this does not diminish the reputation and quality of its top-tier wines, which continue to be highly regarded.
• Small French vineyards may struggle with marketing and distribution, but their size allows for a focus on quality and craftsmanship that can appeal to niche markets.
• Maintaining high quality is a strength of French winemakers, and while competition is increasing, it also drives innovation and improvement within the industry.
• The unique terroir of France is a significant advantage, but other wine-producing regions also have unique terroirs that contribute to the diversity of the global wine market.
• The long-standing traditions in regions like Bordeaux and Burgundy are valuable, but new techniques and innovations from other wine-producing regions can also contribute positively to the wine industry as a whole.